What happens when a Honda timing belt breaks? If a Honda timing belt breaks while the engine is running, it can cause serious damage to the engine. This is because Hondas have interference engines. What are the most common owner problems with the Hyundai Santa Fe? When should someone change the timing belt on a Toyota Camry? When should you change the timing belt in a Ford Focus? If a timing belt breaks in an interference engine, open valves may come into contact with one another. The engine is slowing down to a stop and the camshaft stops rotating, but the pistons are still moving up and down within the cylinders. All this can cause serious damage to the engine and leave you stuck on the side of the road. Honda recommends replacing a timing belt at 105,000 miles or 84 months based on normal driving conditions. If you regularly drive your Honda under more severe conditions (temperatures less than 20 degrees or more than 100 degrees), the recommendation shortens to 60,000 miles or 48 months.

Having your Honda timing belt replaced at the recommended intervals can help ensure it doesn’t break and cause expensive damage to your engine. Estimates suggest that fixing the damage done by a broken timing belt costs as much as $3,000, which is much higher than the cost of replacing the timing belt before it breaks. If you decide to sell a Honda with an odometer reading of 105,000 miles or more, the potential buyer may ask whether the timing belt has been replaced. This could affect the price they are willing to pay for the vehicle. Learn more about Car Makes & Models How much does it cost to replace the timing belt on a Honda Accord? As of 2015, the cost for a timing belt replacement on a Honda Accord ranges between $412 and $585. The cost depends on the year of the car, the type of eng... Car Parts & Maintenance How do you change the timing belt on a Honda? In order to repair a timing belt on a Honda engine, the valve cover, timing belt cover and several mechanical components have to be removed.

What are common mechanical problems with 2.7 Dodge engines? Common mechanical problems with 2.7 Dodge engines include failure of the engine to start, the presence of oil sludge, premature timing, excessive overheati... Car Makes & Models What are the symptoms of a faulty timing belt? Three symptoms of a faulty timing belt include a high-pitched sound, visual damage and a problematic startup. If any of these signs are detected, the timin... What are some specifications of the F-100 series Ford? Can you have parts from Mazda auto salvage yards shipped? Are Ford service manuals available online? Where is the battery in a 2015 Chevrolet Equinox? What are some vehicle brands that carry mid-sized trucks? Why is a BMW called a beamer?25% Off Do-It-Yourself Shocks or Struts Receive 25% Off Shocks or Struts. Use promotional code 25PEP at checkout to receive discount. Receive 25% Off Interior Accessories products when purchased online. Not valid in combination with any other discounts or promotions.

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Offer valid on select special order items that will be identified in search results and product detail pages. Not valid on gift cards, installed merchandise, commercial or fleet purchases. Valid online until 2:59 am EST on 9/30/16. 5,463 posts, read 7,978,008 times 3,084 posts, read 2,486,776 times 21,255 posts, read 14,434,033 times Originally Posted by outbacknv 885 posts, read 3,551,630 times Originally Posted by usafracer Otherwise its like Helen Keller trying to listen to the radio. 996 posts, read 3,140,035 times 3,632 posts, read 7,226,434 times I took it over there today and they tightened the belts. I asked if there were any other things wrong with the car, regarding the belt squealing and he said everything checked clear. And I did do a few things you guys suggested before taking the car over there.... I revved the engine in park and no squeal. Today, on start up and on the way over there, no squeal at all...but I took alot of your advice here and you guys confirmed that it was a loose belt.

Edit ArticleHow to Remove a Serpentine Belt Using Auto Tensioner Today's modern vehicles use a serpentine belt to drive the air conditioning system, alternator, water pump, smog pump and power steering pump. Previously, these systems used multiple belts on pulley systems with a number of ways to manually tighten the belts. The serpentine belt system consists of only one belt and one automatic belt tensioner. The process is often tricky with various manufacturer's designs, but is not very difficult and may be done using basic hand tools. Determine repair parts needed: Park the vehicle in a level spot and set the emergency brake. Raise the hood of the vehicle's engine compartment and set the hood brace to keep it open, if so equipped. Look for a diagram decal posted near the front of the engine compartment that lays out the serpentine belt. Locate the serpentine belt auto tensioner pulley using the diagram. After letting the engine cool thoroughly, use one of the tools mentioned below to pivot the tensioner pulley to take the tension off the belt.

Remove any belt guard, cover or fan cowling as necessary -- for instance on a belt driven fan on some rear-wheel-drive vehicles (on older cars, on trucks, etc.) to more easily access the belts, but replace it all later. Remove a under engine splash-guard/cover, if necessary (these protect belts and accessories, electronics, etc.): this is found under the vehicle -- to gain access to bottom pulleys. It may be attached with plastic snap in retainers or screws or both. Be sure to put all such covers back on later.Do "not" cut the belt: Avoid such a "short cut", as that can cause the tensioner or where it attaches to be damaged when it springs back violently. Using the "universal" hexagon (hex) nut type: Select a socket wrench, a combination or adjustable wrench and insert it over the pulley hex nut (you may need a "cheater pipe" to slip over the wrench handle to lengthen it and give you more leverage). Often a ratchet and socket is to thick to fit (Chrysler products have used the universal hex-nut on the tensioner pulley) in the narrow space between the engine and chassis or front fender, on front wheel drive engines.

Then a box end wrench or special, rented, long-handled tool may be used. Patented lug feature: Use an open end wrench on a patented "tensioner rigid lug" that accepts an open end wrench, available only with certain manufacturers' engines. Patented square opening feature: Use a bare 3/8 inch (9.52 mm) extension attached to a 3/8 inch (9.52 mm) ratchet with a cheater, or use a long handled "breaker/break-over" wrench, inserting it (without a socket) into the square opening -- General Motors (GM) vehicles have this patented method -- in the tensioner lever or bracket. Borrow or rent: Get a thin, flat, long-handled, serpentine belt removal tool (or kit with various size low profile sockets and "crow-feet", open-end attachments) at an auto parts store. Follow the instructions in your manual, or a sheet that may come with the tool (or ask for advice from an experienced "handy-man"). Push or pull, logically: You may push down on the tool handle -- if the belt is over the tensioner pulley -- or pull up, if the belt passes under the tension pulley (but not necessarily, as that direction depends on the design and orientation of the tensioner and the belt).

Note: It is a very heavy spring tension, and pivoting the tensioner is often not possible with a short handled tool. Hold the tension from the belt, and slip the belt off the auto tensioner pulley to remove the belt and pulley system. Slowly release the tension to avoid damage or injury, and then remove the tool from the belt auto tensioner. Carefully examine the pattern as you remove the belt from the remaining pulleys, to be sure that you understand the routing of the belt for replacing it later in reverse sequence. If it is not to be reused -- or would be in your way such as while installing a water pump or such -- remove it from the engine compartment. Operating caution: Not any of the belt driven accessories (such as the engine coolant system, air conditioner, heater and power steering) will operate without the belt, so do not run the engine at all. Show more unanswered questions Most auto supply stores will "rent to own" serpentine belt removal tool (the long, flat, thin breaker bar) to you at no cost, when you buy but then return it for a refund within the specified time (48 hours at some stores or a longer time at others).

Reverse the procedure to reinstall the serpentine belt on the pulley system auto tensioner. Be careful to get the belt on the the other pulleys and aligned properly on all parts of the complicated routing, then apply the tool to allow the belt to be slipped onto the tensioner pulley. Alternatively, if the idler pulley is more accessible (easy to reach) -- while holding the tool with one hand, already having put the belt on the tensioner pulley. Now using the tool to un-tension the belt system, then you might get it onto the idler pulley more readily than onto the tensioner pulley. Replace any belt guards, cowling -- or splash shields to cover bottom of the engine. You may need a good "third hand" (a serious-minded helper). Burns: The temperature generated by the engine can cause severe burns or hot water scalds. Wait until the engine has cooled to work on anything on the vehicle that is near it, or the engine exhaust pipes. Eye injuries: Always wear safety glasses when working on a vehicle.