1999 honda civic ac compressor replacement

HVAC systems often fail because the air conditioning compressor fails. Not following the proper service procedures or compressor oil recommendations could be factors that contribute to premature compressor failure. Since the mid-‘90s, all vehicles have been using R-134a refrigerant, but soon, vehicles will arrive at your shop equipped with R-1234yf refrigerant. This is the new, more environmentally friendly refrigerant that is being mandated for adoption. Whichever refrigerant the vehicle has — R-134a or R-1234yf — that is the only type of refrigerant that should be used as a replacement. Swapping one for the other will only lead to potential problems. For model year 2014, R-1234yf is used in the Jeep Cherokee, Chrysler 300, Dodge Ram 1500, and Dodge Charger, Challenger and Dart. In 2015 it will be in the Chrysler 200, and most OEs are expected to have numerous applications by 2017. The evolution of refrigerant has required an evolution of oil used inside the A/C compressor as well.

When R-12 was the industry-standard, compressors used mineral-based lubricants. When the industry switched to R-134a, OEMs had to switch oils too because a mineral-based oil doesn’t mix with R-134a and will not move through the system, causing a compressor failure. The answer was a move to PAG (polyalkylene glycol) oils. R-1234yf also requires a PAG-equivalent oil. PAG oils come in several different viscosities (PAG 46, PAG 100 and PAG 150), and OEM recommendations vary. As an example, Sanden R-134a SD7H15 piston compressor models use Sanden SP-15 PAG oil for service. SD5H models are shipped with SP-20 PAG. All Sanden R-134a compressors for some GM, Honda and Volkswagen applications use SP-10 PAG oil. If the OE specifications are not available, some technicians have chosen to use PAG 100 in all factory R-134a A/C systems because of its universal viscosity. HVAC systems circulate refrigerant oil with refrigerant through the system, and when a system is recovered, some of the oil remains in other system components as a film.

This is why you must pay close attention to the amount of oil in a compressor upon removal. HVAC systems with too much oil can result in reduced cooling capacity, and systems with excessive lubricant will create an internal coating that results in less heat transfer. So, if you don’t know how much oil was drained from the compressor, then you won’t know how much remains in the system, and then you will not know how much to add back.
york hvac parts indianapolisAlso, keep in mind that many new compressors come pre-filled with oil, so you’ll have to drain the appropriate amount from that compressor before installing.
ac unit buzzing fan not working Here’s a good procedure to follow:
harga ac portable november 2012Remove the oil plug from the failed compressor and drain as much oil as possible from the suction and discharge ports and from the crankcase into a suitable container.

Turn the front shaft nut one-half turn every minute for about three minutes. Be sure to slightly tilt the compressor back and forth a few times to help the oil reach the oil drain hole. 2. Measure and record the amount of oil drained from the compressor. 3. Drain oil from the new compressor following step 1. 4. Replace some of the new oil back into the new compressor in an amount equal to the measurement taken in step 2. 5. Reinstall the oil plug and torque to specs. An internal compressor failure will result in small particles that mix with the oil and move throughout the HVAC system. This contaminated oil must then be flushed from the system, but doing this can be tricky. The best methods are liquid based, either a closed-loop power flushing using refrigerant, or back-and-forth flushing with a fluid flushing solvent. Note: R-134a can be used to flush lubricant and loose debris from an A/C system, but the refrigerant will not remove any particulate matter attached to the inner tube walls.

A system flush is also a good practice if, for some reason, the amount of lubricant in the A/C system is in doubt. If simply replacing an A/C component, use this as a guideline for oil replacement: In the event that the entire system has been flushed, unless otherwise specified by the OE, best practice is to add half the total oil capacity in the compressor and the other half in the accumulator or receiver dryer. Doing this ensures that the compressor will not start up dry and that lubrication will be distributed evenly throughout the system. To prevent oil slugging and potential internal damage to the compressor, after the hoses are reattached, manually rotate the compressor shaft 10 times. Chris Crowell is currently managing editor of Underhood Service, Brake & Front End and Import Car. Coolant Transfusion: Proper Selection Prevents System Degradation Refrigerant Revolution: What R-1234yf Means for Service, Equipment, Safety Be Careful When Replacing That Diesel Air Filter

PLEASE SELECT Your Honda Civic Year PLEASE SELECT Cooling Product 2012-2015 5 Honda Civic Radiator - (All submodels 1.8L L4 Sedan; Automatic Transmission + 1.8L L4 Sedan; 2012-2015 5 Honda Civic Radiator - (All submodels 2.4L L4 Sedan + 1.8L L4 Sedan; 2012-2015 5 Honda Civic Radiator (KOYO Brand) - (1.8L L4 Sedan; 2012-2015 5 Honda Civic Radiator (KOYO Brand) - (All submodels 2.4L L4 Sedan + 1.8L L4 Sedan; Automatic CVT Transmission + 2.4L L4 Sedan + 2.4L L4 Coupe + 1.8L L4 Coupe; Automatic Transmission + 1.8L L4 Coupe; 2006-2011 1 Honda Civic Radiator - (1.8L L4 Automatic Transmission) 2006-2011 1 Honda Civic Radiator - (Automatic Transmission) 2006-2011 1 Honda Civic Radiator - (Base model Gas Hybrid + Hybrid Gas Hybrid) 2006-2011 1 Honda Civic Radiator (KOYO Brand) - (All submodels 1.8L L4 Automatic Transmission + 1.8L L4 Automatic CVT Transmission) 2006-2011 1 Honda Civic Radiator (KOYO Brand) - (All submodels Automatic Transmission + Automatic CVT Transmission)

2006-2011 1 Honda Civic Radiator (KOYO Brand) - (Base model Gas Hybrid + Hybrid Gas Hybrid) 2002-2005 5 Honda Civic Radiator - (All submodels 4-Door Sedan; Automatic Transmission + LX 2-Door Coupe; United States + EX 2-Door Coupe; United States + DX 2-Door Coupe; 2002-2003 3 Honda Civic Radiator - (3-Door Hatchback) 2002-2003 3 Honda Civic Radiator (KOYO Brand) - (3-Door Hatchback) 2001-2005 5 Honda Civic Radiator (KOYO Brand) - (All submodels 4-Door Sedan; Standard Transmission + LX 2-Door Coupe; United States + HX 2-Door Coupe; 2001-2005 Civic Radiator (KOYO Brand) - (Base model 4-Door Sedan; Automatic Transmission+ Base model 4-Door Sedan; Automatic CVT Transmission + LX 2-Door Coupe; 1999-2000 0 Honda Civic Radiator - (EX Automatic Transmission; United States + GX Automatic Transmission; United States + HX Automatic CVT Transmission; 1999-2000 0 Honda Civic Radiator (KOYO Brand) - (EX Automatic Transmission; 1999-2000 0 Honda Civic Radiator (KOYO Brand) - (LX Automatic Transmission;

United States + EX Standard Transmission; United States + CX Automatic Transmission; United States + DX Automatic Transmission; 1999-2000 0 Honda Civic Radiator - (LX Automatic Transmission; 1996-1998 8 Honda Civic Radiator (KOYO Brand) - (LX Automatic Transmission; 1996-1998 8 Honda Civic Radiator - (LX Automatic Transmission; 1988-1991 1 Honda Civic Radiator - (FWD; Thanks to a winter frost heave and a tiny canvas carport I had the misfortune of accidentally breaking my side mirror when the car rolled over a bump in the driveway due to the tire positioning and the closer than close proximity of the poles holding up the carport wall. My neighbor who owns a garage tried to help me find a new mirror "preloved" so that I could save a few bucks. Even if he went to the junk yard himself and pulled it I was going to be paying at least $80. This was money that I didn't have for a side mirror I needed to have. He gave me his contact list & the website he uses to try and find the part on my own because I was getting ready for a road trip through a few states and we thought I would have better luck elsewhere.