HVAC systems often fail because the air conditioning compressor fails. Not following the proper service procedures or compressor oil recommendations could be factors that contribute to premature compressor failure. Since the mid-‘90s, all vehicles have been using R-134a refrigerant, but soon, vehicles will arrive at your shop equipped with R-1234yf refrigerant. This is the new, more environmentally friendly refrigerant that is being mandated for adoption. Whichever refrigerant the vehicle has — R-134a or R-1234yf — that is the only type of refrigerant that should be used as a replacement. Swapping one for the other will only lead to potential problems. For model year 2014, R-1234yf is used in the Jeep Cherokee, Chrysler 300, Dodge Ram 1500, and Dodge Charger, Challenger and Dart. In 2015 it will be in the Chrysler 200, and most OEs are expected to have numerous applications by 2017. The evolution of refrigerant has required an evolution of oil used inside the A/C compressor as well.

When R-12 was the industry-standard, compressors used mineral-based lubricants. When the industry switched to R-134a, OEMs had to switch oils too because a mineral-based oil doesn’t mix with R-134a and will not move through the system, causing a compressor failure.benson air handling unit The answer was a move to PAG (polyalkylene glycol) oils. lg ductless air conditioning manualR-1234yf also requires a PAG-equivalent oil. 18000 btu split air conditioning unitsPAG oils come in several different viscosities (PAG 46, PAG 100 and PAG 150), and OEM recommendations vary. As an example, Sanden R-134a SD7H15 piston compressor models use Sanden SP-15 PAG oil for service. SD5H models are shipped with SP-20 PAG. All Sanden R-134a compressors for some GM, Honda and Volkswagen applications use SP-10 PAG oil.

If the OE specifications are not available, some technicians have chosen to use PAG 100 in all factory R-134a A/C systems because of its universal viscosity. HVAC systems circulate refrigerant oil with refrigerant through the system, and when a system is recovered, some of the oil remains in other system components as a film. This is why you must pay close attention to the amount of oil in a compressor upon removal. HVAC systems with too much oil can result in reduced cooling capacity, and systems with excessive lubricant will create an internal coating that results in less heat transfer. So, if you don’t know how much oil was drained from the compressor, then you won’t know how much remains in the system, and then you will not know how much to add back. Also, keep in mind that many new compressors come pre-filled with oil, so you’ll have to drain the appropriate amount from that compressor before installing. Here’s a good procedure to follow:Remove the oil plug from the failed compressor and drain as much oil as possible from the suction and discharge ports and from the crankcase into a suitable container.

Turn the front shaft nut one-half turn every minute for about three minutes. Be sure to slightly tilt the compressor back and forth a few times to help the oil reach the oil drain hole. 2. Measure and record the amount of oil drained from the compressor. 3. Drain oil from the new compressor following step 1. 4. Replace some of the new oil back into the new compressor in an amount equal to the measurement taken in step 2. 5. Reinstall the oil plug and torque to specs. An internal compressor failure will result in small particles that mix with the oil and move throughout the HVAC system. This contaminated oil must then be flushed from the system, but doing this can be tricky. The best methods are liquid based, either a closed-loop power flushing using refrigerant, or back-and-forth flushing with a fluid flushing solvent. Note: R-134a can be used to flush lubricant and loose debris from an A/C system, but the refrigerant will not remove any particulate matter attached to the inner tube walls.

A system flush is also a good practice if, for some reason, the amount of lubricant in the A/C system is in doubt. If simply replacing an A/C component, use this as a guideline for oil replacement: In the event that the entire system has been flushed, unless otherwise specified by the OE, best practice is to add half the total oil capacity in the compressor and the other half in the accumulator or receiver dryer. Doing this ensures that the compressor will not start up dry and that lubrication will be distributed evenly throughout the system. To prevent oil slugging and potential internal damage to the compressor, after the hoses are reattached, manually rotate the compressor shaft 10 times. Chris Crowell is currently managing editor of Underhood Service, Brake & Front End and Import Car. Coolant Transfusion: Proper Selection Prevents System Degradation Refrigerant Revolution: What R-1234yf Means for Service, Equipment, Safety Be Careful When Replacing That Diesel Air Filter

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One of the Civics early achievements was the CVCC engine that produced such clean emissions that there was no need for a catalytic convertor. It was also the number one fuel efficient engine for four years, then became the standard engine by 1980, and since pushed the Civic to create an even more fuel efficient engine. By 1984, the Civic could run at 51 mpg for the city and 67 for the highway in the five-speed manual CRX Civic Coupe. It depended on the model, but nearly all of the Civics during the ‘80s could run at least 30 mpg for the city, with a few exceptions like the four-wheel drive wagon and models with automatic transmissions. The next model that would replace the CRX for the highest fuel efficiency was the 1992 VX that had a 1.5L inline-4 with 48 mpg for the city and 55 for the highway. No other Civic models have reached this kind of efficiency other than the 2007 Hybrid which boasted 49 mpg for the city and 51 mpg for the highway. Known for its functionality, reliability, and longevity, the Honda Civic has been a favorite compact car of drivers everywhere for several years.