OEM Part Info - Reman AC Compressor You don’t want to start worrying about replacing the AC compressor in your Ford during the dead heat of summer. When it’s just as hot in your cabin as it is outside you start making poor replacement decisions: The heat gets to you. It’s best to check on your replacement part needs the problem starts, and when you’re looking for a replacement AC compressor, use only OEM parts. OEM replacement parts guarantee your vehicle will continue running as the manufacturer intended. By using OEM parts you avoid the headache of cheap, aftermarket knockoffs that won’t last the life of the vehicle or work as well while they’re in use. Having a properly functioning AC compressor is the only thing that keeps your car bearable in the dog-days of summer, so be sure to use only the best and go with genuine OEM parts. When you’re in the market for OEM replacement parts, visit us at Blue Springs Ford Parts. At Blue Springs Ford Parts we carry only genuine OEM parts at the lowest prices.

Call 800-248-7760 today and let us help you keep your Ford tolerable in the summer heat.Automotive air conditioning compressors require specific types of lubricants. Most 1996 and newer A/C systems use R134a refrigerant and require some type of PAG (polyalkylene glycol) oil for the compressor. If the wrong type of compressor oil or the wrong viscosity compressor oil is used, it may damage the compressor. In fact, the main reason for a newly installed A/C compressor to fail is using the wrong type of compressor oil. PAO (Polyalphaolefin) oil can sometimes be used as a substitute for certain PAG oils if the compressor manufacturer approves it. CAUTION: PAG oils should NEVER be used in hybrid vehicles because it is electrically conductive. POE (polyol ester) oil is usually specified for hybrid cars that have electrically-driven A/C compressors because it is non-conductive. Using the wrong oil may allow current to short circuit back through the A/C compressor, creating a shock hazard.

Mineral oil should only be used in older R-12 A/C compressors because R-12 will not mix with R-134 refrigerant.car ac repair boynton beach "Universal" A/C compressor oils are often PAO-based and are not the same viscosity as the PAG oil recommended for a specific type of compressor. best 8000 btu window ac unitThis can lead to poor lubrication and premature compressor failure.how much freon does a 3 ton ac unit hold Newer vehicles with R-1234yf A/C systems require a special 1234yf compressor oil specified by the vehicle manufacturer. General Motors recommends GM lubricants only (PAG-PSD1 #19260643 for 2013/14 Cadillac XTS, and PAG-ND12 #19299051 for 2013 Cadillac ATS). Universal compressor oils should NOT be used in R-1234yf applications.

The following is a list of recommended lubricants by compressor manufacturer. you can identify the compressor mfr. by looking for an ID tag or label on the unit (or see the reference illustrations at the right and left): Sanden SD7 (key shaft).............. Sanden SD7 (splined shaft).......... 2000 - 2012 Honda Accord (Denso).... 2000 - 2006 Honda Insight........... 2005 - 2009 Honda Civic (Sanden)....SP 10 PAG 46 2004 - 2009 Nissan Maxima/Altima....Type S (DH-PS) PAG 46 2001 - 2003 Toyota Prius............ 2004 - 2012 Toyota Prius............ 1997 - 2012 Toyota Camry............ If you are replacing a compressor or other A/C system component, it is important to replace any compressor oil that has been lost when parts are changed. The total system oil capacity for many late model passenger car A/C systems is only about 4 ounces (120 ml). A low oil level can starve the compressor for oil and lead to compressor failure. CAUTION: Do NOT overfill the the A/C system with too much compressor oil.

Too much oil can hurt cooling performance. Use the following guidelines for replacing compressor oil when changing A/C components: The total amount of oil added to compensate for parts that have been replaced should NOT exceed the total oil capacity of the system. If you don't know what the total oil capacity is, check the underhood A/C service decal or look up the information in the OEM service literature. (PDF file - requires to view).I get a lot of questions about car air conditioning systems not blowing cold enough. Especially during hot humid summer days. Most people would like to see frigid cold air blasting from their small dash vents instantly upon request. Now that this page is getting some heavy traffic I am adding some additional information and a new “Simple Fixes” video at the bottom along with some related tools and equipment for people who want to take it to the next level. So lets get that cold air back. Remember when your car has been baking in the sun heat is stored up in large quantities and must be removed before it starts to feel cool inside.

But what if the air does not seem to get cold after 5 minutes? There are many factors involved that affect the actual output temperature at the dash AC vents. To follow will be a few examples of common problems that I find when inspecting a car air conditioning system that is not performing as well as it should be. Without a doubt the most common problem that I find is an incorrect Freon charge. The amount of Freon in the system is extremely critical. The manufacturer installs the exact amount that is required for the system to perform at its peak. This exact charge is so critical it is documented in the vehicle’s engine compartment down to the ounce. A few ounces short of a full charge can result in inadequate cooling under high heat loads due to lack of reserve refrigerant. A telltale sign of this condition would be for a compressor clutch to cycle on and off faster than usual. The rapid clicking sound generated from this condition can usually be heard from inside the vehicle.

Sometimes when people try to recharge their system on their own they will actually overcharge the system which can cause poor cooling performance just as much as low Freon levels. In extreme examples an overcharge of refrigerant can even cause AC compressor damage and noisy operation. Not as common as the Freon issue mentioned above but one that is common in my area at this time of the year is a radiator or a condenser that has been considerably clogged with bugs, dust and dirt, or road debris and trash. When this junk starts to reduce the airflow that passes through the radiator and then through the condenser it can cause higher than normal high-pressure readings. This in turn can knock several degrees off of the output temperature in the cabin. This is the kind of problem that slowly gets worse over time. It is very rare that people will take the time to check or clean the radiator and condenser. The fleet company I work for has made this operation part of the scheduled service operations.

We have a pressure washer and we physically clean the radiator and condenser fins every 20,000 miles. Although there are lots of other problems that can cause poor cooling the two mentioned above are ones that I find often. If you think your car air conditioning is not blowing cold enough the first step is to check the output temperature at the center duct with a thermometer. Make sure the recirculation or max air mode is selected and the blower is on low speed. 40 – 50 degrees is perfect. On hot humid days in south Florida 55 degrees is welcomed. Step 2 is to have a professional connect a manifold gauge set and get high and low side pressure readings. With these readings a logical path of diagnosis can get your AC blowing cold as it should be. Read more on this subject if you plan on finding a mechanic to recharge the car air-conditioning. I put together a repair modules section on my you fix cars website that talks about the theory and operation of car air conditioning.