208v ac unit

18,000 BTU 230/208V Window Air Conditioner with Remote and ENERGY STAR Cools up to 1,000 sq. ft. Cooling a big room doesn't always have to cost you big bucks. It's all about efficiency. Our 18,000 BTU unit can cool a large room up to 1,000 sq. ft. without breaking the bank. The Auto Restart will automatically turn the unit back on following a power loss caused by a storm, wind, or extreme heat- so you don't have to. Estimated cooling area (1000 sq. ft.) for temperature control Removes up to 4.5 pt. of moisture from the air in a hour to control humidity This question is from 18,000 BTU 230/208V Window Air Conditioner with Remote and ENERGY STAR3 Is this unit a 110 or should I say can u plug it into a regular 3 three pronged outlet This question is from 18,000 BTU 230/208V Window Air Conditioner with Remote and ENERGY STAR2 Can this AC Be installed through the wall? This question is from 18,000 BTU 230/208V Window Air Conditioner with Remote and ENERGY STAR1 When??

Will this be available at store # 4903 ?? This question is from 18,000 BTU 230/208V Window Air Conditioner with Remote and ENERGY STAR1 Availability?? When will this be available at store # 4928?The SRCOOL18K SmartRack 18,000 BTU 208V/240V Portable Air Conditioning Unit pumps 18,000 BTU of cooling power into your IT environment to prevent shutdowns, malfunctions and failures caused by overheating or fluctuating temperatures. Part of the SRCOOL line, this compact, portable unit is perfect for server rooms and other IT environments with heat-sensitive equipment in areas that facility air conditioning can't reach.The self-contained SRCOOL18K is capable of cooling a small room up to 850 square feet using its louvered vent. A built-in evaporator expels the condensed water through the directional exhaust duct, eliminating the need for a drain tube, drain pan or water collection tank.You can also use the included flexible tube to aim the cold air precisely where it's needed most, such as an overheated rack enclosure or an equipment hot spot.

The SRCOOL18K also dehumidifies and filters the air, providing better air quality that can enhance equipment performance with little power consumption.Designed for quick, simple installation, the SRCOOL18K rolls into place on durable built-in casters and plugs into a standard 208/240V 20A outlet. It's programmed to restart automatically after power failures, and you can set the built-in timer for unattended shutdown and startup.By installing the optional SRCOOLNET remote management accessory (sold separately), you can also monitor temperatures, receive alerts, review logs and control settings from anywhere via SNMP, web browser, SSH or telnet. IEC 309 60A 3P+PE 208 VAC input, 17.20 kVA power rating Outlet connector: 30 x IEC 320 C13 View Full Product Details Offer valid for 20 minutes. *Price before gift card BUY MORE, SAVE MORE ORDER NOW FOR ESTIMATED ARRIVAL ON [~backorderInfo.deliveryDateText~]ORDER NOW FOR ESTIMATED ARRIVAL IN [~backorderInfo.deliveryDateText~] BUSINESS DAYS

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Currently Out of Stock. See Price in Cart I have preparation for an AC connection with 3-phase 220V 3X16A breaker. I want to install a 220V 1-phase unit, which also needs a 16A breaker. The physical connection has screw-on terminals, so there is no worry about plug compatibility. I have spoken to 3 electricians: one says that I need only change the 3-phase breaker to 3 separate 1-phase breakers, and leave the 2 additional phases disconnected and unused in the AC connection. The other two electricians say that there is no problem leaving the 3-phase breaker and just leaving the unused phases disconnected. All of them agree that there is no worry about the shared neutral of the connections, and say there is no need to re-wire the neutral. Should I listen to the majority? I tend to trust them more since they are basically telling me that they don't have to work (do nothing = no get paid), so I'm more suspicious of a guy telling me I need to pay him to do the needed changes.

I'm asking both in terms of code-correctness and more importantly, safety for myself, the AC unit and the house (electrocution is bad, blown AC unit is bad, fire is bad). Edit: to clarify, mains voltage in Israel (where I live) is 220V. Most older homes have 1-phase 40A (or even 25A) breakers, and new homes (like my own) have 3-phase 3X25A breakers. The main usage for the 3-phase is AC units and electric cooktops and ovens. The rest of the electrical wiring in the house is distributed across the three phases to even out the load.The 3-phase breaker is just 3 separate 1-phase breakers with a handle physically connected so shutting off one shuts off all. Code correctness depends on your local jurisdiction. In virtually all USA locations, separate uses of each phase allows either breaker setup, while use of all 3 phases on the same device requires the 3-phase common handle breaker. The 3 separate breakers would be more convenient with 3 separate circuits since you won't turn so much off if one of them goes off.

But there may be a rule that requires this in some location. I have no idea what your power supply is in Israel, however, the previous answer speaks to 3 phase in the USA. Residential service here does not use 3 phase. Phase is a vector voltage calculation determined by a delta or WYE transformer, used in industrial or service distribution on high voltage lines. In over 40 years in the business, I have never seen a 3 phase panel or breaker in a typical home, unless it is some kind of mansion. If anyone wants to talk code correctness, they better have some reference. The previous answer is inaccurate and misleading. In 120/240 residential service, the two 120VAC lines supplied by the utility are called legs or branches, never phases. A phase is completely different. I am sorry to sound testy here, but answers on this site need to be accurate, especially if someone wants to quote code requirements. I'll apologize in a heartbeat if Skaperen can reference the NEC 3 phase residential service and a 3 phase breaker sections.

I found this link by mistake so it's been a while since you asked your question, Eli Iser, so I hope it all worked out for you. My main reason for responding is shirlock homes answer, tho it appears he enjoys what he does I have been an electrician since 1977 and although we do very little residential and we are commercial - industrial, We do have a service department and am concerned that he may have comments that do not relate to all. Here in Florida we have three phase power to many houses that are not mansion that use it normally for the AC units. I'm concerned shirlock homes is not an actual electrician when he asked to be shown the code section for the 'three phase residential' section, I'm looking in my 2008 and 2011 NEC code book and I don't see a section that is called "three phase commercial" either. Skaperen response was 100% correct. We have inspectors that will allow you to use a 3 phase breaker for single phase (240 volt) turning off only two legs and we have some who will not.

shirlock homes can reference code section 90-4 in the NEC on that one. As far as his comment on 'legs' or 'branches' he again shows his inexperience, I have never talked to the power company (which I do on a weekly basis) and been told they where giving me 'legs' or 'branches', it's always been 'single phase' or 'three phase', 3 wire or 4 wire, 120/240v, 120/208v or 277/480v. Also I have never called the supply house and asked for a 2 leg breaker it's a 1 pole breaker, 2 pole breaker or 3 pole breaker. I don't mean to be testy here but when your helping someone who is a novice you should actually try to answer the question and not be a smarty pants. As far as Israel, I do not know how the power is supplied to the customer or distributed thru the panel so I'm sorry, greg 'a good ole redneck electrician from Florida' The electrician that says three separate is most accurate as far as code safety. The other two know it will work but all phases are tied into three ganged breakers.