Home / GY6 Electricals / GY6 150cc Ignition Troubleshooting Guide: No Spark? This guide covers almost any of the 150cc buggies, scooters, or ATV’s with the standard “AC” CDI setup.  The first version was downloaded over and we’re happy that this information continues to help so many people! Don’t want to hassle with the electrical system? Due to frequent requests from readers of this guide wanting to avoid hacking into their electricals to find the problem, we’ve put together a kit with all of the electrical parts covered here to shotgun the most common “no spark” problems all at once.  Instead of struggling with a multimeter for hours, you can now plug in the parts and be done. Recommended: Ignition Tune Up Kit Reliable vetted parts picked by the writers of this guide. Will fix spark, or your money back. Getting started: How it all works The 150cc GY6 ignition system is fairly easy to troubleshoot in the case of malfunction. There are 4 major components that work together to produce spark, if any of these are defective spark will be lost.

What we will be doing here is troubleshooting these ignition parts starting at the source, and working towards the spark plug.ac unit buzzing fan not turning Stator (6th winding and trigger pickup module)honeywell ac unit reset To diagnose your ignition system, you will need to do each of the steps in this article, in sequence.harga ac portable semarang Before getting started, take a look at this diagram.  Although there are many differences in wiring between models, most GY6 ignition systems work the same as shown in this illustration.  You’ll want to come back to this for reference throughout the guide. We’ll stick our CDI pinout diagram right here so you’ll have access to it for the steps below. FIRST STEP: BYPASS YOUR SWITCHES

A very common cause of no spark is a defective ignition or kill switch. Before beginning to troubleshoot ignition problems, it is best to bypass the switches. How to bypass your switches Create a jumper wire from pin #4 directly to a good grounding spot on the engine. Being very careful not to deform or break the pin, remove the #5 wire from the CDI plug at the harness. This can be done with a sharp narrow tool like an ice pick or stiff paper clip. Looking from the front of the plug, you will see small metal tabs on each pin which secure them to the plug. Push the tab down and the pin will release. Don’t use force here. Depending on your stator type, you have either 6, 8, or 11 windings. Of these windings, one is dedicated to supplying the CDI with ignition power. This winding is usually wrapped in white cloth material and sealed over with clear epoxy. A simple type of crankshaft position sensor. Sends a signal to the CDI to let it know when to send fire to the plug.

Set your multimeter to read in VOLTS “AC”. Locate and disconnect the Black/Red and Blue/Yellow wires coming from the stator, where they plug into the main engine harness. (These are both bullet-style connectors) While cranking the engine, use a multimeter to check for voltage coming from the Red/Black (CDI power wire) and the Blue/Yellow (trigger wire) coming from stator. Place the black lead of multimeter on a metal surface of the engine while using the red lead on the tips of the wires. There should be between 20vAC ~ 100vAC coming from the CDI power wire (Black/Red), although much lower voltages will still be able to produce spark. There should be at least 0.05vAC coming from the trigger wire (Blue/Yellow). Write the voltages down and continue to the next step. Stator output: 20vAC minimum Trigger output: 0.01vAC minimum STEP 2: THE CDI UNIT The CDI Unit is powered by the AC current coming from the wrapped stator winding. This current is stored in a capacitor within the CDI unit.

When a signal is received by the trigger pickup passing over the flywheel magnet, the CDI will discharge the stored energy into the wires leading to the ignition coil. Ensure your multimeter is set to read in VOLTS “AC”. Just like before: while cranking the engine, use a multimeter to check for voltage at the two primary wires of the ignition coil. Connect your back multimeter lead to the black ground wire at the coil, and with the red lead to the lighter color wire (usually blue or purple, but it varies). At this step we are checking to see exactly what the CDI is outputting. Write the voltages down and continue to the next step. CDI output: Can be 5% to 30% less than the output from the stator. The minimum we have seen working is around 18vAC. STEP 3: THE IGNITION COIL The function of the ignition coil is to multiply the voltage of the power supplied from the CDI, and to send the multiplied power to the spark plug. Troubleshooting the Ignition Coil:

Check for 0.1 ohm ~ 1.0 ohm across the two primary coil terminals. This isn’t exactly definitive, as we have seen working coils with 0.0ohms resistance. The best way to tell if the coil is bad is to perform steps the steps above. If there is still no spark, the coil is likely bad. STEP 4: SPARK PLUG The plug is very rarely the cause of no spark on the GY6. If the plug is fouled or cracked it may not spark. Ensure that the spark plug is gapped properly.Recommended spark plug gap: 0.6mm ~ 0.7mm (0.23″ ~ 0.27″) Was this guide helpful? Please consider supporting this article and our efforts to provide the best technical support to the GY6 community.  You can purchase our Ignition Tune-Up Kit directly from our online store to ensure that more Tech Center guides like this one continue to be published.  Improves ignition performance, especially in cold weather Quick and easy installation with no need to open the engine Converts the unreliable AC powered ignition to a more modern and reliable

Much less expensive than replacing multiple OEM components The system stabilizes the ignition, especially at low speed Easier diagnosis if a new problem arises 1. Generates low quality variable signal, especially at low rev. 2. OEM internal ignition coil is subject to failures due to the system's design. 1. Stabilizes the signal for a constant output at all speeds. 2. Eliminates the need for an internal ignition coil known for causing failures. DIY easy installation video Please consult our installation instruction guide for important instructions regarding the installation of this product Complete installation instructions available on Youtube. Praised by the specialized press ATV & SXS Illustrated Volume 13, Issue 4 Tech Troubleshooter - Polaris Sportsman Ignition Fix Tech Tip - Polaris Power Fix There was a run of Sportsman 600’s and 700’s from 2002 to mid 2006 that were plagued with electrical problems and failure of the ignition system was a matter of when, not if.

The AC powered ignition was the Achilles’ Heel of an otherwise stone reliable ATV.  Unfortunately, the price to replace with an upgraded Polaris kit was well over $500 and it was your only option. With our new Ignition Fix Kit, we convert your problematic 2002/2003/2004 Sportsman 600/700 AC ignition to a much more reliable DC ignition at less than half of the price of the Polaris upgrade kit. Our upgrade kit consists of a new CDI and a remote coil, all required wiring, and installation instructions that allow pretty much anyone to get the job done without professional help. This kit uses the heavier windings of the lighting coil to power the ignition… the problematic section of the stator is no longer used, and the new secondary ignition coil is isolated from the CDI in contrast to the integral coil/CDI that comes from the factory. The result is more reliability, better spark, and easier diagnosis should you have another problem in the future.More bang for your bucks !