By continuing to use the site, you agree to the use of cookies. The cookie settings on this website are set to "allow cookies" to give you the best browsing experience possible. If you continue to use this website without changing your cookie settings or you click "Accept" below then you are consenting to this. Power Management IC (PMIC) MOSFET and IGBT Gate Drivers AC Motor Speed Controller Circuit This triac-based 220V AC motor speed controller circuit is designed for controlling the speed of small household motors like drill machines. The speed of the motor can be controlled by changing the setting of P1. The setting of P1 determines the phase of the trigger pulse that fires the triac. The circuit incorporates a self-stabilizing technique that maintains the speed of the motor even when it is loaded. 220VAC Motor Speed Controller Schematic For example, when the motor of the drill machine is slowed down by the resistance of the drilled object, the counter-EMF of the motor also decreases.

This results to a voltage increase in R2-P1 and C3 causing the triac to be triggered earlier and the speed increases accordingly. Related Products: Motors |  Printed circuit board layout of the motor speed controller Another version found here. If the main use for this circuit is to control the brightness of a light bulb, RS and CS are not necessary.4kw ac unitThis device can be used to remotely control the speed of an AC fan and to switchrooftop hvac units price it on or off. quietest central air conditioning systemThe remote control is a cheap NEC Format remote, usually supplied with small DVD players. used to command the circuit. The UP key increase the fan’s speed while the DOWNThe ENTER key is used to switch on or off the fan.

provides 10 way speed control from 0 to 9. The current speed is displayed in a seven segment display. The yellow LED on the PCB indicates the power statusIf the load is switched off using the R/C then the LED will also In the Video below you can check out the project in action. The main parts of the circuit is labeled below. You can make the circuit as per the schematic on any general purpose PCB. ease your job we are giving the PCB Layouts too, so that you can make the PCB at your home using the EtchingYou may also have the PCBs made from any fabrication house too. easy the job and save your money we have already made the PCBs from a good fabrication house and they are available for purchase at very low cost. Start assembly process by first soldering the jumper1. Then you can mount theAfter that solder the diodes, remember to properly orient the diodes. They are polar and don’t work if installed other way round. IC U4 and U2, this time too take care of the orientation.

The small round circle on the IC package marks the PIN number 1. After that you can solder the ceramic disk capacitors, the 16MHz crystal, 7805, Triac, TSOP Sensor, Display. Finally Connect the 12-0-12 Transformer and applyThe display should show ’0′. Then you can press the up/down key in remote control to adjust the speed. The display should change accordingly. that the circuit is running properly. Its time to connect a real AC load. Connect a 220V 100W incandescent lamp (NOAs shown in the above wiring diagram. Replace the fan with bulb because its easier to test. Now you can can use the remote control to increase/decrease the lamp’s brightness using the remote control. You can also switch it on and off using the ENTER If the unit does not respond to the remote control signals then look for the Remote Control (NEC) is available from our online store. Remote Controlled Fan Regulator Kit. PCBs can be purchased from PCB

section of our online shop. Note: Other files that are part of the eXtreme NEC decoder must also be added to the project. They can be downloaded from links given below.Take a 1 minute test. Buy complete kit including PCB, Parts, Programmed MCU, Transformer and Matching IR Remote eXtreme Electronics highly recommends EasyEDA circuit design & order PCB. Powerful Free Circuit Simulator & PCB Design Tool - EasyEDA 10 pcs 2 layers only $10, register to get $5 Cash Coupon Now If you look at my profile description, you'll see that I'm involved in building and wiring up Carnival floats that are powered by an 800KVA, 415v, 3 phase Generator. Electrically, they generally have about 10 or 15 motors, thousands of light bulbs and a 20KW sound system. 3-phase induction motors are used to drive big spinning steel structures which carry a lot of weight and have a lot of momentum, and therefore need to ramp up (and down) the speed over a period of around 10s so as not to put too much stress on gearboxes, chains and bearings, etc.

The running speed also needs to be adjusted to fit the float design, which needs to be done electrically as changing gear ratios is not practical once built. To control the motors, an Inverter Drive is needed, which is a very expensive piece of kit that has a huge array of parameters that can be adjusted to control motors in all different situations. We have 2 of these units that control a few motors each. So the problem I have is: A big single point of failure - one unit fault causes many motors to fail. Many of the motors are limited to being driven at the same speed, when individual speed control is sometimes needed. As we struggle to raise the funds to build our carnival float every year, we cannot afford to buy any more Inverter Drives (unless someone is kind enough to donate one as they have with the two we've got). I would love to be able to build my own for a fraction of the cost. I don't know if I'm setting myself an impossible task and am setting my sights way too high, or if this is indeed achievable.

Looking inside an Inverter Drive, I can see several SMD circuit boards, some huge capacitors/inductors, and some heat sunk transistors. I have experience of switching/dimming resistive loads using pic based control circuits, but although I know the theory, controlling a 3 phase inductive load at the moment is beyond my skill level. Can any one guide me to where I should start with this. I suppose initially I'm looking for a block diagram of the modules (with a little detail) that I would need to build a home-made inverter drive (e.g. PSU, microcontroller, output stages, etc), and how they fit together. I can then work out if indeed its even worth attempting this, and if so work out which parts I can happily design and make myself, and which parts I'll need more help with. Input: 240v single phase or 415v 3 phase. Output: 415v 3 phase variable frequency motor drive. Controls: Stop/Start, Ramp up speed (seconds), Ramp down speed (seconds), Running speed (Hz), Emergency stop.

Display: Current speed (Hz), Load (A) From the information provided by pingswept and bt2 in their answers, I think I've come up with a simulation of the bare bones of what I need... Rectify the 3-phase to get 586V DC and use 6 IGBTs controlled by an IRS2330 which is controlled by PWM from a microcontroller. motor frequency speedcontroller three-phase I spent 13 years designing electronics of this exact nature: three phase induction motor reduced voltage soft starters and variable frequency AC drives. I spent the last few of those years as a VFD applications engineer helping customers select and configure this equipment for various loads and industries around the country as well. You will not be able to build something that is cheap and safe. The voltages and currents involved are well beyond the safety margin of a hobbyiest, especially someone who is openly avoiding buying commercial units in order to save money. While the theory behind AC motor control is very straightforward, the detail level work (heat sink sizing, snubbering, gate drive requirements, de-sat protection, motor overload calculations, bus capacitor protection, etc.) can be quite tricky to get down, especially with heavy duty cycling and regenerative power modes which a carnival ride will CERTAINLY be generating.

I strongly caution you against trying to build something of this nature unless you have significant experience not only in microcontrollers and embedded systems design but also significant experience in power electronics and three phase circuitry. People get hurt and killed building this stuff. My first question for you is whether speed control is really required, or if you only require a soft start up and slow down. Do you vary the speed of the motor once it is started? If not, you may be able to get away with a MUCH cheaper reduced voltage soft starter. These units act like three phase light dimmers; they only adjust the applied voltage to the motor. You will not have a lot of torque at low speeds, but with the right design of motor (NEMA class D) you can achieve exactly what you're after with a fraction of the cost and maintenance. If you really do need to vary the full-load speed of the motor then you are more or less stuck using a variable frequency drive. As you are aware these are expensive and if you buy cheap you are likely to replace them sooner due to your high surge current (they call this "constant torque") application.

What I would definitely recommend doing if this is the case would be to contact various manufacturers (Allen-Bradley, Cutler-Hammer, SAF drives, Benshaw, Yaskawa, etc.) and ask for reconditioned units. Ask for a drive capable of delivering 150% rated current for 30s (this is usually known as heavy duty) or size the drive 30-50% larger than your nominal current rating. You will also likely be running off of generator power which is notorious for being undersized and prone to brownouts and surges as the load requirements change with the state of the equipment being run. Drives don't like that (voltage sags cause current spikes as the motor starts slipping and surges can cause you to overvoltage the bus capacitors) and have a tendency to either fault out or blow up. I am all about the little guy building something and saving a buck, but this is not the type of project to do this on. If you really want to build a three phase AC drive, start with a little 10HP 480V motor with a hand brake on a test bench.

You have all the potential for experiencing the pants-filling sensation of an H-bridge failure or a bus capacitor explosion two feet from your head but without the potential lawsuits and loss of life (except perhaps your own). In the big picture, I think you're talking about a 500-1000 hour job and at least a few thousand dollars in materials and circuit board expenses. If you really want the best solution for the money, get a high-paying job and spend the wages from the same 500-1000 hours to buy used motor controllers off Ebay or Craigslist. You'll end up with more motor controllers. But that's not much fun. If you wanted to build one, you'd need 6 MOSFETs or IGBTs (one on the high side and one on the low side of each leg of the star). Then you use a microcontroller to turn the switches on and off to simulate a sine wave. Since the voltage you're talking about is quite high, you'd need what's called a high-side driver-- a chip that can control a MOSFET at very high voltages.