Be sure to scroll down... there may be more than one question on this page! There are two ways to solve this problem. The easiest and cost-free way is to simply partially close down all the other vents to force the air to flow more readily to the "starving" register. This is a primitive but effective way to, as they say in the biz, "balance the system". This is a common way to make seasonal changes in a two floor house with a single zone. winter months, you want more heat downstairs, but it tends to rise upstairs. partially closing the upstairs registers, the downstairs registers blow more heated air… which eventually rises upstairs anyway. In the summer, the reverseThe upstairs registers are left open wide, while the downstairs onesOf course, you will have to fine tune this method through trial and error to get the best seasonal balance. The other way, which would require more work and expense, would be to install a boosting fan for that register.

These are designed to turn on when they sense air movement or a temperature change. They can be installed as part of the heating system, and are tied into the central unit. There is another type that I have seen available in some mail order catalogues and home stores. installed in place of the register, has a temperature-sensitive switch and receives power from a nearby outlet. It's tough to face reality sometimes. Though we would like our homes... inanimate objects that they are... to knuckle under to our wills, Mother Nature has a way to keeping us honest. From your letter it is unclear if anyone checked to see if the ceiling above the garage was insulated. these spaces have room for up to 10 inches of insulation and only have a paltryIf your home was built before the 1970's, chances are having more insulation pumped into the space between the garage ceiling and your son's floor will work wonders! You may be right that the soft duct is slightly crushed.

It is also possible, though, that the flexible duct is just too long. Those ducts cause lots of resistance to air movement... far more than rigid metal ducts...which might explain the low air volume received at a distant location. You can try to compensate by "balancing the system". fancy name for the creative closing... fully or partially... of all registers to the colder rooms (during AC season, that is... the reverse for the heatingThis forces the HVAC fan to overcome the resistance in the duct and force more air to the distant locations... in your case the office! This simple method of balancing is "seasonal", meaning that you may have to change your adjustments with the seasons depending on whether you are heating or It's tough to face reality sometimes. Though we would like our homes... inanimate objects that they are... to knuckle You must sleep with the bedroom door closed at night! really, since it offers you some protection from smoke in the hall in case of a

fire... but you can still hear the smoke detectors wailing! You do have a smoke detector in each bedroom and the upstairs hall, don't you? I would suggest that instead of moving the thermostat down the hall, you run the thermostat wires through the wall into one of the bedrooms. car ac repair calicut you better control over the temperature in them, and allow you to leave theprices of split unit air conditioners in nigeria downstairs thermostat set at a comfortable level. 12.5 ton ac unit priceJust hand a picture over the old hole until you repair it or leave it if you decide to return it to its Return to NH's Question and Answer IndexShow All ItemsWorkaround that avoids the replacement of the AC evaporator sensor from all Ford Fusions up to 2012.

A problem that Ford should take care in guarantee considering the poor quality of the sensor used and because it is a recurring problem on several vehicles. Ford recommends the replacement of this sensor, to do that, the complete dashboard removal is mandatory. The service costs around U$ 600 and the sensor around U$ 20. Therefore, it is not cheap.Material:- 1 37kOhm resistor (1/8 W);- Electric tape;- Stanley KnifeStep 1: Glove box disassemblyShow All ItemsDisassembly of the glove box pressing it on both sides.« PreviousNext »View All Steps Download post #1 of 143 Air Conditioning Fan runs but vents are closed I have a 2013 Escape. I can be driving along, when it is hot (80+) and usually have the fan speed on 1 with the temperature setting just above max. The recirculate button is on. It cools fine then suddenly, no air is coming out of any of the vents. You can turn the fan up to max and just barely feel any air coming out, but you can hear the fans blowing hard. The first two times this happened, we had been driving for a short while (30 minutes) when this happened.

We arrived at our destination about 15 minutes later, then stopped. Car was shut off. It sat for approximately an hour the first time. When restarted, the A/C worked fine. About a week later, after driving for approximately 2 hours, same temperatures outside, it did it again. After continuing driving for just another 5 minutes, I stopped to get gas. This took about 5 minutes. When I started the car, the A/C worked fine for the remainder of the 2 hour drive home. The most recent time this happened, it was after approx. 1 hour of driving. This time, I just turned off the A/C at the console, while the car was still on. Waited about 10 seconds, turned it back on and it was fine. Took it to the local Ford dealer, explained in detail what was happening. Of course, after the first day of them having the car, they couldn't get it to replicate the problem. After 3 more days, still no problem. Anybody else have this problem and if so, was it fixed? If it was fixed, what did they do to fix it?