4,303 posts, read 9,542,717 times 8,923 posts, read 33,173,370 times 27,818 posts, read 27,120,608 times Originally Posted by chilaili I bet you bought one of those "efficient" pleated filters? 2 posts, read 39,263 timesCentral air conditioners can be interior or exterior. Central air conditioner units are meant to provide cooler temperatures for your home whenever you need it. When they are installed properly they will last for years, but there are also numerous working parts that make up the interior of a conditioner unit. All of these parts are subject to wear and tear over the years. Noises coming from your air conditioner might be something as simple as a loose cover, but you have to be able to differentiate the simple from the complex problems to avoid costly repairs. Rattling Noises Rattling is a common noise with air conditioners, as the various fasteners throughout the machine can eventually come loose. If you hear rattling, start by checking the screws or bolts holding any cover plates in place.

If the noises continue, remove the cover and check internally for the same issue. While you can listen for rattles, you should flip the power to the unit off at the breaker when you actually go in to tighten screws and bolts. Whistling Sounds Whistling is generally the result of seals which aren’t doing their job properly. This is most common along the cracks and seams of ducts as they exit the central unit and attach to the ductwork that carries the air throughout the home. Examine the seams around these areas for loose connections and retighten any screws or bolts. If heat tape was used to also cover the seals, make sure the tape completely adheres to the duct seams. Check for flaws in any caulking and re-caulk as needed when you find the voids. Screeching The interior motor of an air conditioner unit relies on belts just like a car motor. Anyone who has ever owned a vehicle has heard a motor screeching from time to time when the serpentine belt within begins to wear out and stretch.

The same problem can occur with air conditioners. If there is periodic screeching that only occurs when the unit turns on to blow air or cool the air down, you are dealing with a worn-out belt that needs to be replaced. Thudding Thuds mean something is loose and flying around within the air conditioner unit while still attached to a turning motor. Sometimes this can be something as simple as a fan blade coming loose from a motor and consequently bumping into a guard while it spins. Or it could be something more complex, such as a plastic component or cover plate falling off and into a fan where it causes thudding every time a fan blade passes. Remove the cover plate so you can visually inspect the interior to discover the offending object. Photo Credits Comstock/Comstock/Getty Images Suggest a CorrectionFunny air conditioner sounds should be inspected by a professional. The outside unit of your central air conditioning system is called the condenser. This unit compresses refrigerant and discharges the heat your system absorbs from inside your home.

It’s normal to hear noise from your air conditioner’s condenser unit when it's running; however, not all noises are harmless. If your condenser unit is making funny or unusual noises, it may be an indication of a serious problem that should be addressed by a certified HVAC technician. Turn off the power to your air conditioning system at the main breaker panel or fuse box. Inspect the fasteners on the metal cage surrounding your condenser unit if you hear rattling during operation. trane ductless ac unitsTighten the screws or bolts that hold the cage in place to stop the noise, using a screwdriver or an adjustable wrench. 1.5 ton ac equal to kwContact a certified HVAC technician if tightening the bolts doesn’t quiet the rattle. lg ac repair faridabad

The compressor motor mounts may have failed, which causes the motor to rattle around inside. Sweep debris off the top of the unit, using a broom. Move any objects leaning against the sides or base if you hear thumps, bangs or thuds during operation. Inspect the fan blades if you hear clicking or ticking noises. If a blade is bent, this can cause it to wobble, which can produce these sounds. Contact a technician to replace or repair the blade. Look for loose wiring or signs of burning near the wire connections if you hear buzzes or hums. If you see signs of burning, leave the system turned off and contact a technician for service as these are an indication of an electrical issue or a failing motor. If your unit makes a humming noise but doesn’t start, this indicates the compressor motor may have seized or the system may not be running at the proper voltage. All of these problems should be repaired by a professional. Call a certified HVAC technician immediately if the condenser unit is making loud screaming, hissing or whistling noises.

Loud hissing or high-pitched whistles indicate a possible refrigerant leak. Refrigerant gas can be extremely dangerous, even in small quantities. Alternatively, a very loud screaming noise may indicate excessive internal pressure, which is also extremely dangerous. Things You Will Need Screwdriver Wrench Broom Tips Warnings References Inspectapedia: HVAC Noise Diagnosis and CureHome Tips: Air Conditioner Makes NoiseGoodman Air Conditioning and Heating: Condensing Unit: Air Conditioning Installation and Service Reference Photo Credits Jupiterimages/Stockbyte/Getty Images Suggest a CorrectionDURING humid summers even window air-conditioners that have been cleaned and serviced at the start of the season can benefit from a tuneup before or during the dog days. Most tuneups are easy, take less than a half-hour and can improve cooling. Begin by making sure that the air-conditioner is unplugged. Vacuum or dust the front grille and controls. Remove the grille to clean or replace the air filter behind it.

Some grilles are fastened with screws. Others pop free when pressed along the top or sides. If you have difficulty, consult an owner's manual, if possible. Otherwise, probe with a narrow putty knife around the outside edges for hidden tabs. The filter is a foam or fiber screen attached to the rear of the grille or the front of the air-conditioner behind the grille. Regardless of the severity of the cooling season a filter should be cleaned or replaced every month if the air-conditioner is operated frequently, even if no other maintenance is performed. Doing so is the most effective step in keeping an air-conditioner performing at peak efficiency. Before removing the filter, check how it is held in place so it can be reinstalled. Notice especially whether one side faces the room. Foam filters are generally washable. Cleaning the type that is fitted in a plastic frame is usually easiest if it is held under a faucet, so that water strikes the cleaner side. That forces the dirt out of the pores on the reverse.

After washing, pat the filter with a paper towel or wave it back and forth to dry it. A filter does not have to be completely dry before being reinstalled, but it should not be dripping wet. Replace torn or nonwashable filters. While the filter is out clean the fins on the evaporator coils, the shiny metal ribs on the front of the air conditioner that are visible when the grille is removed. Be careful not to crush any fins. Most are hardly sturdier than aluminum foil. Crushed fins reduce cooling, block air flow and can cause an air-conditioner to emit a whistling noise. You can sometimes straighten crushed fins by gently twisting the tip of a kitchen knife between them. Professionals straighten fins with a tool called a fin comb. Beneath the fins or near them at the bottom of the air-conditioner may be a small drain that channels condensed water to the rear. If the hole is clogged, clear it by poking it with a wire or a section of a coat hanger. Mold or algae can be removed by wiping with a cloth dipped in chlorine bleach or borax mixed with water.

If water is standing in the front half of an air-conditioner check first for a blocked drain. If the hole is clear or there is none, slide a thin strip of wood or cardboard under the front of the air-conditioner, so that the unit tilts toward the rear. That allows water to flow toward the back, where it can evaporate or drain. In humid weather water dripping from the outside of an air-conditioner is normal. The water comes from condensation in the unit overflowing the tray because evaporation cannot dispel it faster than it accumulates. Examine, clean and lubricate other visible moving parts inside like the flaps directing air flow. Brush parts with a paintbrush to clean them. Use lightweight household oil for lubricating. Then reinstall the filter and grille and inspect the unit from outdoors. Shade helps an air-conditioner cool, but trees, shrubs or awnings providing shade have to be far enough away to allow warm air from the conditioner to escape. As a rule of thumb trim foliage back about two feet in breezy locations and more in corners, where air is still.

Clean and straighten the external fins, at the rear, if you can reach them. Finally, inspect any seams and weatherstripping around the air-conditioner and along the window frame. Be sure that the filler panels on the sides of the air-conditioner fit snugly against the sides of the window frame. Install new foam weatherstripping in places where existing strips have come loose, and renew any crumbling putty or caulking compound. Air-conditioners are notorious for developing hard-to-trace noises and other foibles, especially when operated for long periods. Humming is usually caused by vibration. Look first for loose fasteners that can be tightened. Also check the thermostat, a bulb or wire on the front of the air-conditioner behind the air filter, and reattach it if it has slipped off its bracket. Make sure that the thermostat does not touch the evaporator coils near it. That can cause the air-conditioner to turn on and off repeatedly. If humming continues, try shifting the conditioner's position slightly or inserting shims of foam rubber, wadded tissue paper or even small pieces of wood between the grille and the body.