Utah Valley University Asssociate Professor, Collision Repair Technology Masters in Education, Instructional Technology, Utah State University Bachelor in Science, School of Trades, Technology & Industry, Utah Valley State College, Orem, 1998 Associate in Applied Science, School of Trades, Technology & Industry, UtahValley University, Orem,         1992 Concentrations:  Collision Repair Technology PROFESSIONAL LICENCES / CERTIFICATES: Professional Educator License, Utah State Board of Education, Salt Lake City, 2007 Concentrations: Career and Technical Education Journeyman Certificate, Alberta Apprenticeship and Industry Training, Calgary, 1993 Concentrations:  Auto Body Mechanic Automotives Certificate, Division of Trades & Engineering Technologies, Lethbridge Community            College, Lethbridge, 1985 Faculty, Full Time 2007 – 2015, Adjunct 2000 - 2007 School of Trades, Technology & Industry, Utah Valley State College, Orem, Collision Repair                      Technology

Instructor, Full Time 2001 - 2007 Nebo School District, Spanish Fork High School, Applied Technology Education, Collision                         Repair Technology Rhino Linings of Utah County, Orem & Spanish Fork Dean’s Paintin’ Place, Pleasant Grove Production Manager - Quality Control, Body Shop Management, Insurance Claim Liaison Collision Repair Shop Owner/Operator, 1992-1996 Accent Auto Body, Fort Macleod Complete service body shop with specializing in unibody and full frame collision   repair, glass                   replacement, plastic repair, customize painting, restoration,   estimating, welding andequipment                 maintenance. TECHNICAL / SPECIALIZED SKILLS: ASE Master Collision Repair Technician National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence, Leesburg, Virginia, 2013 Chief Automotive Master Structural Technician Chief Automotive Structural Analysis and Repair Training, Madison, IN, 2011

Chief Automotive Certificates of Training Full Frame Analysis and Repair Planning, Chief Automotive, 2013 Computerized Measuring Training, Chief Automotive, 2013 Design Based Repair, Chief Automotive, 2011 Advanced Steering and Suspension, Chief Automotive, 2010 Unibody Analysis and Repair Planning, Chief Automotive, 2010 I-CAR Academic Training Alliance Instructor Inter-Industry Conference on Automotive Collision Repair, 201012000 btu window air conditioner with heat pump I-CAR Certificates of Trainingcar air conditioning repair swansea Aluminum Exterior Panel Repair and Replacement, 2014car ac repair manassas va Advanced Steering and Suspension Damage Analysis, 2014

Vehicle Technology and Trends, 2014 Aluminum Intensive Vehicle Repairs, 2014 Squeeze Type Resistance Spot Welding, 2013 Steel Structures Damage Analysis, 2013 Sectioning of Steel Unitized Structures, 2013 Vehicle Construction Materials, 2013 Replacement of Steel Unitized Structures, 2013 Plastics and Composite Repair, 2012 Steering and Suspension Damage Analysis, 2012 Steel Structures Damage Analysis, 2011 Restraint Systems Damage Analysis, 2011 Advanced Material Damage Analysis, 2010 Vehicle Technology and Trends, 2010 Introduction to Custom Painting, 2010 Ultraviolet Curing Technologies, 2010 Hybrid Electric and Alternative Fuel Vehicles, 2008 Advanced Joining Technologies, 2008 Adaptive Cruise Control, 2008 Electronic Stability Control Systems Overview, 2008 Rear Heating and Air Conditioning Damage Analysis and Repair, 2008 Plastics Adhesive Repair, 2006 Structural Straightening Steel, 2006

Chief Basic Frame Analysis, 2001 Collision Repair 2000+, 2000 AWX Performance Plus Certification, Sherwin Williams, 2013 RM Color Match/Blending, BASF, 2010 PPG Waterborne Technology, PPG, 2009 RM Small Damage Repair, BASF, 2009 RM Automotive Refinish Painter Certificate, BASF, 2005 PPG Global Certification 21, PPG Refinish, 2004 Dimension, Sherwin Williams, 2003 Glasurit 22/55 Line Certification, BASF, 2002 Glasurit Auto Refinish Painter Warranty Certificate, BASF 2002 Curriculum Solutions for Technical Schools, Skills USA University, 2013 Collision Repair Education Foundation, Skills USA University, 2013 Color ID and Approval, PPG, 2011 One Step Parts Edging, PPG, 2011 E-Coat Panel Preparation, PPG, 2011 Light Body Repair and Surface Prep Process, PPG, 2011 Primer Surfacer Sanding Process, PPG, 2011 Plastics Refinish, Dupont, 2005 Automix Plastic Repair Training, 3M, 2005 Perfect It 3000 Training, 3M, 2005

Solid and Hazardous Waste Clinic, 3M, 2005 Plastics Repair, SEM, 2005 Hunter Codelink SAS, Hunter Alignment Systems, 2013 Vehicle Knowledge for Triage/Blueprinting, SCRS, 2012 Importance of Repair Standards, SCRS, 2012 Hybrid Power & Platforms, SCRS, 2012 Plio-Grip, Valvoline USA, 2011 Advanced Polyurethane Specialist, Rhino Linings USA, 1997 Computer-Assisted Auto Collision Estimating, Mitchell International, 1996 PROFESSIONAL MEMBERSHIPS, HONORS AND AWARDS: Skills-USA, State Education Team, 2002-2015 Skills-USA National Gold Medalists- 2014 & 2011 Phi Theta Kappa Society, International Scholastic Order of the Two-Year College Dean’s List,  Spring 1991, Summer 1991, Spring 1992, Spring 1995, Fall 1995, Summer                           2005 If I sit in my car for 30-40 minutes with the AC and the car idling, does that "hurt" the engine, or does it simply waste gas and pollute the air? Would it be better if I turned off the car?

A similar question was asked, but it never addressed non-diesel engines. letting the car idle isn't good for the car, especially with the AC on. What you're basically accomplishing is aiding in the car wearing without racking up any miles. With the cylinders firing, you are using several electrical components, putting some small amount of stress on the belts, etc. If you've ever seen ads for cars claiming high mileage but declaring that they are "highway miles" the claim they're attempting to make is that they aren't doing city driving with the vehicle (unnecessary idling and as such effectively putting miles on the engine but not the odometer). Whenever the engine is running, you are slowly wearing out some of the components of the vehicle. Doing this for a few minutes here or there doesn't make for a huge difference, but 30-40 minutes at a time would be more than equal to the amount of time you'd spend idling at lights/in traffic in a major city during a 1+hour commute.

In short, 2-3 minutes is fine; anything over 10, and the general consensus is that it's a bad idea. Aside from financial and environmental considerations, U.S. and Canadian governmental agencies say that idling produces various negative effects on engine components. During idling engine does not work at its most efficient mode, and the fuel combustion is incomplete. That leads to glazing of combustion chamber and reducing effectiveness of spark plugs in petrol engines (plugs with heavy deposits can foul, and that can reduce fuel consumption by 4 to 5%). Also petrol can contaminate the motor oil which reduces its lubricating qualities (that could mean more frequent oil changes and/or increased wear on the engine). Also, as the engine runs at less than ideal operating temperature, which causes water vapour (a product of combustion) to accumulate in exhaust system (at proper temperature and at higher speed of exiting gasses caused by increased RPMs it clears out pretty good), which leads to corrosion.

Also, idling produces up to 10–12% more emissions than driving for the same amount of petrol used due to incomplete combustion and ineffective operation of catalytic converter. As for people worrying about excessive wear on starting system components, here is some math. According to some estimates, frequent re-starting of the engine can cost about $10 a year extra in replacement parts etc. (In my experience, I had never had to replace a starter (or solenoid, or flywheel gears etc.) in many years I owned several cars (I do drive less than most). And even if people treat their vehicles like junk it might be once in 8–10 years.). Now, let us assume we drive mid-sized car that averages 25 MPG for a 1000 miles (~1600km) a month, or 12000 mi/year. That makes it use about 480 gal/year (12000/25). Assuming modest reduction in fuel efficiency of 5%, that amounts to 24 extra gal/year for the same amount of miles driven ((480 x 1.05) - 480). At low estimate of $3.50 per gallon, that amounts to $84 a year in increased fuel consumption.

Saving that, new starter would pay off in less than three years. Those are very, very conservative calculations. Some numbers cited by various no-idle campaigns estimate that 10 minutes of idling uses about 0.1 gallon of fuel (for a small car). If you idle 10 minutes a day, it adds up to more than 35 gallons a year. And it only takes 10-15 seconds worth of fuel to restart the car. You can save real money just by shutting off the engine on rail-road crossings, at drive-throughs, on long street lights (not recommended for average person) etc. Anecdotally, I've seen a number of (and been in one) car(s) that has overheated while idling. Without airflow, you're depending on the fans and thermostat for more than if you were driving. If all's well with the car, you should be perfectly fine idling for some time. However, if the cooling system has an issue, or if the oil pump is getting weak, you may end up with a breakage that otherwise would not have happened (or at least wouldn't have happened as soon).

Think of extended idling as a stress test for the car, no problem all is well, but if not, you'll find out about it! You have a much higher probability of not having enough oil pressure at idle. If the engine has any issues - such as wear causing tolerances to be larger than initially engineered, or too thin of oil - the lack of oil pressure will be more exaggerated. Idling for long periods could be disastrously more damaging to your engine then the same amount of time spent cruising. I live in Canada and I can tell you the wear on starting an engine is greater than idling for a few minutes, guaranteed, especially since here in the winter it can only take 20-30 minutes for your engine to drop from full operating temp down to room temperature if it isn't running, and cold starting an engine means less viscous oil in the crankcase as well as little to no oil on the valvetrain during the first rotation or Additionally, all engines apply more fuel during warm up than during normal operational temperatures, simply to help them warm up faster.

You should NEVER drive a cold engine (any time of year), get it to at least 75% of full operating temp before driving it, A: because you are going to be running a rich fuel/air mix during warm up and B: Metals (especially aluminum which most modern 4 cylinders are made of this) does not like to heat up fast, you increase the risk of metal warpage, I've seen people blow head gaskets by hammering a cold engine in the dead of winter and warping the head, that isn't a 10$ fix... that's a 1000$ fix if you get a shop to do it. The rule of thumb I use personally is everytime I start driving a new vehicle I first time how long it takes the engine to warm up from cold, I then memorize that time and if I'm going to be stopping anywhere for LONGER than that time I will turn my engine off, lets say it takes 10 minutes to warm it up {at -40f it takes more like 25, but lets say 10} and I'm going to run into a gas station to grab something, if I'm going to be in and out in under 10 minutes, I will leave the engine going (with the doors locked mind you, spare keys and keyless entry are pretty much a must have for that) but if I'm going into a friends house for 15 minutes

, I'll shut the engine off. This is a rough guide, you want your engine hotter for high RPM driving sprints (highway trips) to help the heat transfer to your transmission and exterior components so they don't heat up too quickly either. Theres a hell of a lot more I could say about this topic, but I'll end it here, I'm hungry. On a completely different note... in SOME places (I live in one such place, Notably Vermont), it's ILLEGAL to leave the keys in an unattended vehicle, or to leave an unattended vehicle idling. True, we Vermonters do that a lot in wintertime - leave the vehicle running while we dash into a grocery store so the steering wheel isn't covered in frost when we return - but it IS illegal, and it IS prosecutable. What happens if someone jumps into your vehicle and makes off with it? You'd likely be found nearly as culpable as the thief. A running car is a blatant invitation to theft. Engine wearing happens mostly when the engine old is cold or the engine is over heating.

When the temp is cold pumped engine oil doesn't flow well through block drillings and heads causing the engine components to wear. Now in overheating situation the engine oil is thinner and can't protected engine components as well, certain parts will melt and would cause a water pump casket break. Over heating is a result of over stressing the engine or having not efficient radiator. Warm engine oil provides the best protection for engine components. To answer your question having the AC ON while idling will hurt the engine if the engine can't maintain a recommended operating temperature, no cold weather can stop an engine from over heating without a radiator system. So yes, idling with AC will hurt your engine but only if your vehicle doesn't have an efficient radiator system, such as an older model vehicles. Not sure if I can name vehicles models here without being dragged to court. Over heating is basically what would cause the engine to wear quicker. If you can avoid that, then doesn't matter if the car is running at highway speed or idling.