Learning Center » A/C & Heating » 6 Reasons Why Your Indoor AC Unit is Leaking6 Reasons Why Your Indoor AC Unit is LeakingThe air conditioner is outside the home and the furnace is inside. To diagnose heating, ventilation and air conditioning problems, start with the easy, visible items and work your way to the hidden components. An HVAC consists of a furnace, an air conditioner, ductwork and a fan connected to the ductwork. The thermostat controls these elements by signaling them to turn on or off based on programmed settings. As part of the ventilation system, a filter sits inside the cold air return that removes contaminants from the air before heated or cooled air is distributed throughout the home. Diagnosis Begin your diagnosis of the HVAC system by verifying that it has power. Locate the service panel and ensure the circuit breaker has not tripped. The furnace and the air-conditioner each have their own dedicated circuit breaker or fuse. Turn the circuit breaker off for the unit that is malfunctioning.

Wait about 10 seconds and switch it back on. If you have fuses instead of circuit breakers, switch the main power off. Remove and replace blown, burnt or broken fuses. Next check the thermostat for power. Some thermostats receive power via the electrical system, while others contain batteries. Remove and replace batteries for battery-powered thermostats if there is no power at the unit. Furnace Switch the thermostat to "heat" mode and set the thermostat 3 to 5 degrees above the room temperature. Wait at least 30 seconds before checking for heat at an open register. If no heat comes out, turn the thermostat off. Confirm that the panel door on the furnace is closed. A switch inside the panel door allows the system to operate when it is fully engaged. If not engaged, the heater won't come on. Reset the furnace by opening the panel door and turning off the gas or pushing the reset button. Wait five minutes -- or follow the instructions in the unit's manual for reset -- then turn the gas back on.

Air Conditioner Set the thermostat to "cool" mode. Adjust the thermostat setting 3 to 5 degrees below the room temperature. Locate an open register and check for cool air after waiting for 30 seconds. Reset the air conditioner at the circuit breaker. If the air conditioner was running, but stopped producing cold air, check the air conditioner for water below the unit. If there is water, dirty coils can cause the coils to freeze. Turn the air conditioner off at the thermostat and circuit breaker, let the unit sit for three hours, then clean the coils and restart the unit. Ventilation Ensure the fan is on at the thermostat and the registers are open. Newer thermostats have two settings for the fan: "on" and "auto." When set to "on" the fan will run continually. When set to "auto" the fan kicks on with the heater or air conditioner calls for it. Locate the cold air return and remove the filter. Examine the filter for dirt. Cold air return filters must be clean for the system to operate efficiently.

If your filter is a permanent one that requires cleaning, follow the steps in the owner's manual. Locate the arrow on one side of the filter that shows the direction the air flows. After cleaning, ensure that you put the filter back with the arrow pointing toward the ductwork inside. Replace the disposable filter with a new one. central air conditioning repair brooklyn nyIf the registers for the ventilation system do not deliver air, locate the blower motor and check the belt for cracks or breaks. top ten hvac manufacturersReferences Hannabery HVAC: Heating Troubleshooting ChecklistTrane: Troubleshooting Photo Credits Jupiterimages/Comstock/Getty Images Suggest a Correctionvw beetle ac compressorThe requested URL /vbb/showthread.php?797072-Zoned-system-return-air-problem-high-room-pressure was not found on this server.

The requested URL /showthread.php?t=430112 was not found on this server. Common Opportunities: The Top Five Thermocore Systems Dual-Zone ENERGY STAR Ductless MiniSplit Heat Pump Air Conditioner (12000BTU+12000BTU) Thermocore Systems ductless mini-splits can be installed in virtually any location featuring reliable Toshiba Compressor. They cool or heat the zone/area in which they are installed. Independent zone control allows for improved comfort and substantial energy savings. Thermocore Systems ductless heat pumps not only provide cooling during the hot summer months, but also provide efficient heating for the winter. They are far more efficient and substantially more economical compared to conventional central air conditioning systems. Outdoor Unit Dimensions: 33 1/4 × 12 1/2 × 27 1/2 inches - Weight: 106lbs - Indoor Unit Dimensions: 33 × 8 × 11 inches - Weight: 18lbs - Warranty: 5 years compressor / 1 year parts - Lineset Gauge: 1/4" x 3/8" - SEER:21 HSPF:10 - Max Breaker Size: 20amp/220v Min Breaker Size: 15amp/220v

3.2 out of 5 stars #859,577 in Home and Kitchen (See Top 100 in Home and Kitchen) #59 in Home & Kitchen > Heating, Cooling & Air Quality > Air Conditioners & Accessories > Air Conditioners > Split-System I purchased a Thermocore system two years ago. The condenser is completely rusted out and no longer works. Great for the Price, but the installation kit comes incomplete, no wiring for the both air handlers Units, no patch for the holes, no pipe to go thru wall, so I end up... while i do love this system there is a major flaw to them being that they are cheapy chinese made: the thermostat! I purchased a 30,000 BTU, three-unit Thermocore system in April 2014. I saved about $250 over similar ductless mini-split units.ImperialCrown wrote about the common problem of having cold air coming from one vent and hot air from another: For other auto air conditioning solutions, click here. This article briefly describes the control system of computer controlled air conditioning systems which are typical of Chrysler vehicles which do not have automatic temperature control.

This system is also similar to that of other manufacturers' products. The following components are used: 1). An electromagnetic a/c clutch. 2). The fan relay (the relay is a double-pole-single-throw type; 1/2 is used for fan control whereas the other 1/2 is used in the relay logic circuit used to control the a/c clutch). 3). The wide-open throttle (WOT) cutout relay. 4). The pressure cycling switch. 5). The switches used to select air conditioning: defrost and a/c. The point marked "to ecm" is drawn to a positive value via a pull up resistor on the computer's board. The pressure cycling switch is used to prevent ice formation on the evaporator's core (this would obstruct air flow and cause system overheating). The WOT cutout relay is a normally closed one; it is energized (opened) by the ecm if the ecm detects a WOT condition -- this reduces engine load during high power demand. The fan relay is energized by the computer when cooling is required, a/c is required, and, under appropriate conditions, for radiator demisting (to reduce steaming when the vehicle's engine is on, but the vehicle is not moving).

The clutch is an electromagnetically controlled "brake" which is attracted to the compressor when current is supplied; the friction material ensures that, if the clutch is working properly, the compressor will fully engage. The surge suppressor on Chrysler products is often a pair of zener diodes mounted back-to-back in the (polarized) connector going to the clutch. Operation of the system is as follows (assume that the car is not near WOT): The compressor is now on. The compressor will continue to be on unless WOT is reached or the pressure cycling switch opens. The process then repeats. The following readings were taken using an OTC 500 meter and OTC current measuring clamp; they are off of a 1986 Le Baron: A common failure is the fan switch's resistance increasing. Indeed, these switches are known to melt from overheating. On 1980s products, this switch is a replaceable item (about $18) -- the entire pushbutton assembly does not require replacing. Here are some problems I ran across in my Le Baron:

1). BAD FAN SWITCH The switch didn't overheat, but caused an insufficient current to be delivered to the clutch. This caused the clutch friction material to overheat, which caused the clutch to float on a layer of gas. The symptoms were (1) gradual reduction in cold air delivery and (2) smoking refrigerant oil (leaking from a 9 years old compressor front seal). 2). BAD PRESSURE CYCLING SWITCH AND CONNECTIONS The pressure switch had bad intermittent connections; also the terminals in the external connector were corroded. The symptom was the a/c cycling on and off about three times per second (recall that the computer's timer is set to something between 300 and 400 ms). Copious use of television tuner cleaner and polishing the blade terminals on the switch would temporarily eliminate the problem. The fix consisted of replacing the switch (aftermarket bought from a parts jobber -- about $30), replacing the terminals in the connector (available in any hardware store), and spraying the connectors' boot with silicone lubricant (for a weatherproof seal).

The original terminals were merely crimped; I crimped and then soldered the connections. You will require the factory manuals (or equivalent information) and a high impedance multimeter. If a digital meter is used, it must have a bar graph display since the digital display with the dual-slope integrating analog to digital converter will react too slowly to changes in the circuit. A min/max function is also useful to have. The voltage drop from the clutch to the battery's negative terminal MUST be low when full operating current is seen -- about 700 mv maximum is ok. In my case, after all repairs were made, the voltage was between 400 and 500 mv. For one test, I disconnected the clutch and replaced it with an unpowered test light -- this allowed me to check voltage drops with the a/c always on (pressure cycling switch would never open). Although full current was never approached (the light draws only about 300 ma), I did find bad connections. Measuring individual voltage drops is the ONLY reasonable approach.