In ’80, Pontiac introduced the new R4 A/C compressor to some of its Trans Ams and Firebirds. Weighing in at nearly half the mass of the long-in-the-tooth A6 compressor, the R4 continued in the F-body line through ’92. It has earned a reputation as an unreliable design because it was prone to body and shaft-seal leaks, and seizing up due to the lack of an oil pan for oil storage.Aftermarket replacement compressors have been available to consumers since the ’80s, but their focus was on reproducing the original, flawed part, without coming up with something better. Enter Classic Auto Air of Tampa, Florida, whose Original Air Group is dedicated to designing direct-fit upgrade A/C kits using modern R134a refrigerant (it’s no longer called freon!) in classic Pontiacs.“There’s a growing demand for replacement A/C components for Third-Gen F-bodies, and ’80s-era G-bodies,” says Classic Auto Air’s marketing/product development guru Dan Acosta. “The factory R4 compressor has proven to be the most common cause of A/C component failure in Third Generation Trans Ams and Firebirds.

Most of these vehicles had factory air conditioning, and many of them are in need of repair and/or updating.”The factory R4 compressor has proven to be the most common cause of A/C component failure in Third Generation Trans Ams and Firebirds So far this year, Classic Auto Air has introduced direct-fit kits for ’86-’87 and ’88-’92 V-8–powered T/As and Firebirds. (Kits for ’82-’85 Third-Gen F-bodies and ’82-’87 G-body Grand Prixs are in the works; custom systems for these years are already available.)

“In addition to keeping your vehicle worry-free cool, these high-performance kits reduce parasitic horsepower loss, which results in as much as a 5hp gain, and can safely operate up to 6,000 rpm,” Acosta says.Classic Auto Air suggested its Stage 3 upgrade kit for the subject ’87 Firebird Formula equipped with GM’s corporate L98 350ci powerplant. Follow along as Classic Research and Development Lead Technician Mike Oliveras installs it.Classic Auto Air says that the above steps can be accomplished by DIY mechanics, but evacuating and charging the new A/C system should be left to a licensed A/C professional. ac delco motorcycle air filterThis particular vehicle took approximately 1.69 pounds of 134a refrigerant. how to defrost ac evaporatorThe A/C technician must calculate the amount of 134a, which is generally 70-80 percent of the amount of R12 specified for the vehicle. gmc hvac control unit

/uploads/sites/21/2014/01/1987-pontiac-firebird-AC-upgrade-last-connections.jpg" alt="[32] Oliveras connected the discharge fitting to the D-port of the compressor, followed by the condenser and suction fittings to the S-port of compressor, and routed the former to the accumulator. He then installed the suction hose to the inlet of the accumulator. To complete the project, he reinstalled the air plenum and MAF.” class=”wp-image-118220″ />Classic Auto Air’s Third-Gen A/C Upgrade KitsStage 1 Compressor upgrade, which replaces the unreliable and poor-performing R4 compressor with the dependability and efficiency of the modern rotary-style compressorPN 23-261MSRP $399.99Stage 2 Engine compartment upgrade, which combines the Stage 1 kit with a direct-fit, high-performance parallel-flow condenserPN 22-230MSRP $699.99Stage 3 (shown) Deluxe engine compartment upgrade, which combines the Stage 2 kit with a new evaporator, effectively replacing all A/C components that contain refrigerant and lubrication, thereby eliminating any chance of system contaminationPN 22-230DMSRP $749.99Note: All kits feature brand-new parts, including model-specific hoses;

a high-performance variable-rate orifice tube; and step-by-step installation instructions. Vacuum leak in AC/Heater controls Re: Vacuum leak in AC/Heater controls Originally Posted by jaxflz28 If you remove the HVAC control panel you will see a small disc with a bunch of prefabbed vacuum hoses on it. This is the leak. It is made of rubber and dries out after time. You have 2 options- replace it for about $20 from the dealership or fix it. To fix it- remove it from the panel- it is held in by a few 7mm screws. There is a small spring clip(s) holding it together. CAREFULLY remove it- the plastic is fragile and can break as well as the clips. Inside is a rubber disc- remove it and put it in brake fluid for about an hour (or longer depending on how long you can be without it). The brake fluid will cause it to swell slightly and seal again. It is only a temprary repair- it will last for about a year. You are better off replacing it with a new one. Originally Posted by sr20fd3st Valve Vac Sel GM part # 16032395

Re: Vacuum leak in AC/Heater controls Attached Thumbnails Re: Vacuum leak in AC/Heater controls Bolt and nut trick: How to fix the heater A/C switch on a 82-92 Trans Am or Camaro - YouTube __________________ 2011 3rdGen Fest 3rd Place Camaro Stock. 2012 3rdGen Fest 3rd Place Camaro Modified 2012 3rdGen Fest 3rd Place Best Paint 2015 3rdGen Expo 2nd Place Stock 2015 ICC 3rdGen 1st Place Stock Camaro 2016 3rdGen Expo 1st Place Resto-Mod 2016 ICC 3rdGen 1st place Stock Camaro Originally Posted by zero13 Did I miss something? Re: Vacuum leak in AC/Heater controls I have the GM 16032395 in stock. I was alerted by a customer that there was a need for this item. I've begun refurbishing and testing them. I will have the other mode selector valve available soon and on my web site. Re: Vacuum leak in AC/Heater controls for vacuum hose to control Re: Vacuum leak in AC/Heater controlsIf You're Into Building A Fast Car, An Easy Way To Get Quicker Is To Start Losing Weight.

One Of The Best Places To Start Is With A/C Delete Don’t panic–this is not a scheme to nuke your massive AC/DC music collection. We’re talking about that big, clunky air conditioning (A/C) system that for decades GM has hung like a giant suitcase protruding into the engine compartment. In the early muscle car days, top-of-the-line muscle cars such as ’67 Z/28 Camaros or any of the solid lifter-equipped 375/396 cars and the famed LS6 Chevelle were always without A/C. It was heavy, and frankly, not in line with what a good performance car should have. Today, it’s almost as impossible to order a performance car without A/C, but we’ll save the discussion as to whether we’ve become a nation of lightweights for a different time. The point of many true performance enthusiasts is that a hard-core performance car makes an appearance without all that unnecessary baggage protruding out from the firewall.The idea here is to get rid of that weight and gain the space to make it easier to change valve covers or spark plugs.

The downside to ripping all this extra baggage off the firewall is that it leaves a massive hole. That thin piece of tin that separates you from the south side of the engine is appropriately named. With any car, it’s best to keep at least one layer of tin or fiberglass between you and that spinning mass of cast iron, aluminum, and steel. While you could cobble up some simple covers or cut out the entire right side of the firewall and weld in a flat sheet of tin, there is another solution. AGM Industries (formally known as American Graffiti) now makes very nice fiberglass A/C-delete plates to help you clean up that engine compartment for around $160.00, and they are specifically designed to bolt in place with only a small amount of fabrication. You’ll notice we’re only really talking about GM cars in this story. The Ford and Mopar guys are lucky because all the A/C junk is stuffed under the dash on most of those cars, which means they really don’t need an A/C-delete plate. So for the most part, the Ford and Mopar clan can go the A/C-delete route without the necessity of creating a big firewall cover.