It is an old Rheem RGAA-100C furnace, On the old motor the wires was: White, Brown, Red, Black and Blue. On the new Motor it has Brown, Brown/White, Black, Red, White, and Blue. I don't know how to wire it back. They do not make the old motor anymore, this motor was the replacement. Could you please help. On the circuit diagram on the motor says: [Blk (Hi) or Blue (Med) or Red (Low)] to Line. There should be a schematic printed on a sticker on the motor. Without knowing the make and model, or looking at the diagram. I'm guessing based on other motors. One common "standard" is as follows: White = grounded (neutral) (clockwise). Black = High speed. Blue = Medium speed (medium low). Red = Low speed. Brown = Run capacitor. Brown w/ white = Run capacitor. Yellow = Medium speed. Purple = Grounded (neutral) (anticlockwise). Optional wiring available on some motors. However, without the make and model, or the schematic, this is just a guess.

The two brown wires (Br and Br/Wh) should be connected to the capacitor. If you don't have one, you may need to install one. The brown wire from the old motor should have been connected to it, so try to remember where you removed the brown wire from.york split ac unit catalogue The white wire from the motor, should connect to the white wire in the junction box. bryant 3 ton ac unit priceThis is L2/neutral, and completes the circuit.jual ac split di bekasi The remaining wires are for selecting the motor speed (Blk, Blue, Red), so you're going to have to figure out which speed you should be using. If you can remember which color wire was connected to the red wire in the junction box, that should be the same color wire to hook back up.

Typically the blower is run at low speed when in heating mode, but that's no guarantee that your equipment was set up that way. I wasn't able to locate any documentation on your equipment, and without a schematic I can't be any more specific. If you could include a good photo of the schematic, I could show you where to make the connections. You should be able to find a schematic in the manufacturer's documentation, or on the furnaces access panel. Since last I posted, I moved WAY south (lil warm down here) and the house I moved into was a foreclosure so a few things needed done, namely the AC and furnace. When the guy did the job he said he would (did?) leave the old motor behind so I could use it for some airflow in the garage. Here's what it looks like... Onto my real questions -- I don't have the wiring diagram, but if I had to guess, I'd say that plug is a speed control (black the common?), and the white is the hookup. has anyone rigged one of these up and if so, how'd you do it?

==== updated 7/1/2012 ==== I got motivated today and started to clean it and look for tags that might help identify what it is -- and well, I think this answers everything (and I got a good picture of it!). It's a Westinghouse 323P683 1/4 hp, 115v motor so xcythe you we're close on those wires (much better than my guess). If I'm reading this correctly... White-Red : low speed electrical hvac garage furnace blower Squirrel cage blowers make great fans. Black is ground, white-negative and red-positive. Looks like blue, white and red coming from the motor. Read the info on the motor, it should have split capacitor in it, may have to change the wiring from 220 to 110. Looks like a 1/4-1/5 horse. Ask a local HVAC guy, feed his ego and be rewarded. If its a 110 just throw a three prong on it and breeze away. I pulled some romex off the coil and pulled a spare heavy duty three prong outta my tool bucket and had a great workshop fan w/ a super long cord.(put a triangle shaped piece of plywood on one side to stabilize it, and a small board 1x2 across the front as a foot/stabilizer, made it quiet)

There's not enough information here to give you a straight answer. It looks like there is some control circuitry in the metal box that's attached. I'd normally say remove that and figure out the wiring directly to the motor, but it appears that the start capacitor goes into this control box, and since that's necessary for the motor to start, you may need to keep the control box and figure it out. I'd open the box and see if there's a schematic on the inside cover that gives any idea. If not, then getting a schematic for your old furnace would be the first step, if that isn't available or known you can use some techniques with a multimeter to determine how the motor is wound and use that information to hook it up. Lastly, check with the guy that made the suggestion - he should have an idea of how to hook it up to a plug. It is a split phase motor there will be a run capacitor some where . the wiring is white is common black is high blue is med red is low . you have to look at the sticker on motor to find out what voltage the motor is it will be either 115 or 230 volts but not both.

if your just using it to move air pick the speed you want and insulate the other 2 wires so if you want high put power to white and black insulate blue and red separately and it may or may not be reversible there is usually reversing plugs on the side of motor if is reversible That look like a 1/3 hp motor, which is a 120 volt motor you got 6 wires on that motor three is for fan speed and they are black for high, blue for med.and red for low. you have a capacitor on that motor three wires are on that capacitor a brown, on one side and a yellow and white on the other side, the white wire is one side of power choose the wire speed you want and cap off the other two so that they don't touch and wire that speed to the other side. Just get an extension cord, cut off one end and wire the ground to the green ground lug or wire. Next, wire the red to the 'fan" side of the cap and wire the black to the hot wire (could be black or white so read the diagram)Fan motors are the unsung “heart” of HVAC equipment.

They work unobtrusively and quietly for years, often under tough conditions. They don’t need a lot of love, but they do need periodic attention and it’s up to you to provide it. The cost of overlooking regular testing and maintenance of motors can be an HVAC system that grinds to a halt, so be sure to check the motor on every maintenance and service call. When you arrive on a jobsite in which a unit’s fan motor is not working or the high-limit switch has tripped, the first thing to check is power to the motor and/or unit. If there is proper voltage, check the low-voltage control circuit. Check for proper voltage at the transformer and check for a fuse in the low-voltage circuit. Make sure the circuit breaker is not tripped (or the fuse is not blown). If the circuit breaker is tripped (or fuse is blown) or if the transformer is bad, it could indicate a short in the motor. In that case, check the windings in the motor before turning the power back on. To check the windings of a motor for an open or a short, you’ll need to measure the ohms.

If the unit has a 120V motor, it will most likely have three or four colored wires (black, red, yellow, and blue are common), a white wire, and two brown wires. Do a resistance check between the white wire and each of the colored wires. The higher the resistance, the lower the speed, with each color representing a different speed: i.e., four colored wires, 4-speed; three colored wires, 3-speed. You want to see a resistance reading. If you get a zero reading that means the motor winding is shorted and may be the cause of the tripped breaker/blown fuse. If you get an infinite reading (overlimit or OL on most digital meters), that indicates an open motor winding. If either of these conditions exist you will have to replace the motor. When checking the ohms on motor windings, many technicians have difficulty determining an open winding vs. a shorted winding. But it’s really not hard to tell the difference between the two. It should show a resistance. If it shows a zero reading it probably means the windings are shorted out.

If it shows an infinite reading, that means the windings are likely broken or open. A good trick to remember this is that an infinite reading means the greatest resistance in the world. It’s like an open door leading to infinity — in other words, an open winding. Meanwhile, a zero reading means the load is taking a short cut around it — in other words, a short. That’s just a simple trick to help you remember that a zero reading means a short, and an infinite reading means an open or broken winding. Just because a motor is not running doesn’t mean the motor is bad. If the power is correct and the motor is neither shorted nor open, check the capacitor (that’s where the two brown wires go). A capacitor helps the motor run and gives it more torque. If a motor doesn’t have the torque to turn the blower wheel or the fan belt, it won’t start. So the capacitor plays a big role. The capacitors on most of residential blower motors are very small, so technicians tend to overlook them.

You should discharge the capacitor before handling it. Using a capacitor tester, make sure the microfarad reading is within 10% of the rated capacitance on the capacitor. It will be a number listed in uF or mfd, depending on the manufacturer. If the reading does not match the rating, replace the capacitor. Checking 240V motors is slightly different because you will have two hot wires and most will be only single-speed. But you still ohm-out the windings to check for open and shorted windings and check the capacitor the same way. Finally, when doing a routine maintenance call on a unit, always check and clean the motor. One of the biggest problems with motor burnouts is dirt. The main thing to tell homeowners is to keep everything clean. Most of the furnaces in heating climates are located in a laundry room or a basement. In those rooms, lint and dirt kicking up from inside the house can block the motor holes and make a motor overheat. When motors overheat they burn up their windings and bearings.