The reset button on a gas furnace is behind the access door in most furnaces. You can avoid expensive repairs by troubleshooting furnace problems before calling a professional. The blower motor itself does not create the heat; rather it blows the heated air created by the furnace through the system's ductwork. Start with the simple causes before moving to the more complex ones. Most furnaces also have a reset button that clears any issues that might cause the furnace to produce no heat. Check the thermostat and ensure it is set properly. Set the thermostat to "heat" and set the fan to "auto." Adjust the thermostat approximately 3 to 5 degrees above the room's current temperature to check if the heat comes on. Ensure that all vents are open in the rooms where you want the heat. Also, check the cold-air return to ensure the filter is clean. Dirty filters clog with dust and need regular cleaning for optimum operation. If the filter is not one that you can clean, replace it. Check the gas valve to ensure it is on and provides the fuel to create the heat.

When on, the valve's handle is inline with the pipe. how much does a trane 4 ton ac unit costWhen it is off, it is perpendicular to the pipe. car air conditioning repair sarasotaIf it is a gas or propane-powered furnace, you will need to follow the owner's manual for resetting. tempstar hvac unitsTypically, the reset process requires turning the reset button or switch off for five minutes before turning it back on. If you have a pilot light on your furnace, ensure it is on. If not, follow the manufacturer's instructions for resetting the pilot light. If after doing all these things the furnace does not produce heat, it might require a new igniter in pilot-less furnaces. Turn the circuit breaker off and on to reset an electric furnace.

If this does not cause the heat to come on, the heating element might need replacement, which requires the services of a professional. Tip Warning References HVAC for Beginners: Furnace TroubleshootingHeat USA: Troubleshooting a Gas Furnace Photo Credits Jupiterimages/Comstock/Getty Images Suggest a CorrectionWindow air conditioners at times just refuse to turn on. In most of the cases, the problem is a minor one and can be taken care of at home without getting a professional help. A little general knowledge about window air conditioners will help you to understand and rectify the associated problems in a better way. So, before you toss your old AC unit or call a repairman, check these five common problem areas and give DIY repairs a try. Check whether the power cord is completely plugged in; sometimes outdoor outlets or older outlets don't secure the plug tightly enough and need to be tended to. Then check the cord to see if there are any visible cuts or breakages on it.

If the power cord is cut, safely unplug the unit and take the appropriate measures to fix the broken areas. If your window unit’s button interface is worn and can’t be trusted, you can also consider buying a cheap universal AC remote or replace the worn switch. If you suspect this is the case, it means the unit is not broken, just that you have no way of communicating what you want the machine to do. A window air conditioner won’t turn on if the fuse of the main power source to the unit has blown. If that is the case, fix it by replacing the fuse wire. Once the fuse has been replaced, check the machine by running it again. If the fuse burns out again, provide a dedicated 120 volt plug for the unit. If the air conditioner draws power from a circuit shared by other appliances, it can’t draw required power supply and will blow the fuse repeatedly. By providing its own high-voltage plug, it can run smoothly with fewer interruptions. NOTE: Because of the power demands of an air conditioning unit, it may trip the safety buttons on certain outlets and the plugs will need to be reset to eventually restore power.

Always check this as well. A similar protocol should be followed if you have a circuit breaker. If your AC won't turn on, check to see if the breaker has been tripped. If so, reset the circuit breaker and start the machine again. If it goes off again, you may need to rewire in order to provide a 120 volt circuit that operates only the AC unit. Check the temperature of the thermostat on your unit. If it the unit is set to "heat," it won't turn on. If it is set properly, try lowering the thermostat slightly to see if it makes a difference. Sometimes the thermostat gets stuck, but you don't know because it appears to be set properly. This is why it is important to make adjustments as you troubleshoot. If adjusting the thermostat doesn't make a difference, you more than likely have an air filter issue. When the filter becomes dry due to dirt accumulation, the thermostat can get stuck and the unit will stall. You can fix the problem by cleaning or replacing the filter. At times, the filter can even get stuck from accumulated debris, and if this happens, the window air machine can’t operate as the evaporator coil freezes.

That is why checking the thermostat is such an important troubleshooting step. Check the air conditioner as a whole to see if it is plagued with the debris or plant growth. A window air conditioner needs to circulate air, and if debris like grass or other objects get sucked in, the capacitor can be damaged, and in extreme cases, the air conditioner can also be blown. So, clear the debris and other vegetation growing around the air conditioner. If all the above mentioned methods fail, then a problem originating in the compressor, condenser, or evaporator might be the culprit. If that is the case, you have no option but to get a professional help.I need help troubleshooting Rheem RAHE-036JAS, Armstrong G1N80AU125D20C-1, Honeywell ST9160B 1068 Board, Honeywell SV9520H 8034 Gas Valve. About a week ago, AC and Heat were working fine. After power failure (could be coincidence), AC problem, Heat working fine. Symptom: No Inside blower. Outside AC Fan and compressor appear to be working fine.

Inside blower will not run. Refrigeration line from AC to house will eventually begin to frost so I believe everything outside is OK. Thermostat: Originally had "Mechanical" AC/Heat thermostat (Lux T101143/PSM40). With Thermostat Heat/Off/Cool switch set to Heat, and Fan AUTO/On switch set to AUTO, Heat runs normally: Inside Blower/Fan is off, gas valve turns on, furnace ignites. After some delay, Blower starts and runs normally. Then, set Thermostat Heat/Off/Cool switch to off. Gas valve turns off, Blower continues to run for a while, then Blower shuts off. With Thermostat Heat/Off/Cool switch set to Off, and Fan AUTO/On switch set to On, Blower runs normally (continuous). With Thermostat Heat/Off/Cool switch set to Cool, and Fan AUTO/On switch set to AUTO, outside AC fan and compressor start and run normally, inside Blower never starts. While outside AC fan and compressor are running, turning Fan AUTO/On switch to On has no effect (inside Blower remains off). Discovered that Thermostat Fan AUTO/On switch seemed "loose".

With covers removed from Thermostat and baseplate exposed, fan switch operation was intermittent. I didn't suspect the Thermostat was responsible for the AC No-Blower issue but since the Fan AUTO/On switch was intermittent, I replaced the Thermostat with a new digital thermostat (Honeywell RTH2300 B). With new Thermostat, no changes observed... Heat still working, and Fan/Blower (alone) still working, and No-Blower with AC On. AC outside fan and compressor still appear to be working fine. At this point, I have completely disconnected the ST9160B 1068 Board, and have marked and removed all wires, and have inspected it for any obvious issues but it appears to be fine. My thought is to thoroughly test the ST9160B 1068 Board. For example: reattach power, jumper Y to R and check for operation of on board relay, etc ... To do this there may be various sensors/interlocks that need to be checked/bypassed, so I'm looking for a procedure that will allow all this to be checked.

If you feel I am looking in the wrong place, please let me know. Here are some pictures of the wiring diagram/schematics from inside the furnace door: And here is a picture of the Honeywell ST9160B 1068 Board: I reinstalled the ST9160B (Fan control) board and reattached all the wires except the R - C - W - Y - G wires which I left disconnected. I verified the blower/fan wiring and it was as Tester101 said: A Black wire was on the COOL terminal. The Black wire runs the blower on HIGH speed. A Blue wire was on the HEAT terminal. The Blue wire runs the blower on MEDIUM speed. A Red wire was on the M1 terminal. The Red wire runs the blower on LOW speed (lowest speed). A Yellow wire was on the M2 terminal but this wire was capped at the other end (non-functional). The wire is used for fan motors that have a MEDIUM-HIGH speed... mine does not. The M1 and M2 terminals are not connected to anything on the circuit board. They only serve as a place to "Park" the blower motor wires that are not used.