Continuous Hissing Noise While The Outside Unit Runs The only way I can describe it is that it sounds like a car tire deflating after a screw or nail was removed from it. It's a continuous "ssssssssss" kinda noise coming from the outside unit. When it hisses, the air coming out from the vents is warm, so I end up just shutting it off cause there's no sense letting it run nonstop only to skyrocket my electric bill if it's not cooling off my home. It sometimes stops hissing at night and the air gets cool again, but since I live in FL, during the day is really when I need the central air conditioner on the most, especially with 2 small children and elderly inlaws. I'd really like to find out exactly where this hissing is coming from and where I can get the part(s) I need to fix it and it won't break the bank!I may want to mention that it's a Rheem 3-ton 14 seer, straight cool, the heater is in the handler in the attic area.Any and all comments are greatly appreciated!! My A/C hasn't been able to keep up with the heat lately (it's been in the high 90's with high humidity, and today the house was up to about 82 inside even though it's set on 70).

I went up into the attic a few minutes ago to see if my untrained eye could see anything wrong with the unit, and I noticed two things: There is a hissing noise coming from the unit where the refrigerant lines go into the evaporator. window air conditioner repair london ontarioI know that I have a TEV, and I've read online that these can sometimes hiss, but I wanted to see if that's likely what the cause is or if it's possibly something else.ac and heating technician salary Cold air (quite cold) is blowing out of the hole where the refrigerant return line comes out of this box (this is also where I'm hearing the hissing), and the attic was cooler than the rest of my house!ac unit pulsating I just had a popular local A/C company out here to investigate, and he said that the unit appeared to have been undercharged from the time it was installed (the house was built in 2006), so he added two pounds of refrigerant.

He said that he didn't find any leaks. Are either of these things issues? Have you lived there long enough to compare the performance of the system to previous summers? (Sometimes units are undersized, or paired with poor duct design.) Is the air coming out of the vents cold? Is it as cold as you remember before problems started? Is the airflow at the vents good? After he added coolant, is the system working better? If yes, the system was low on charge. If not, something else is wrong. It is possible for the system to be low on charge, but still be able to keep up on days that are moderate (albeit at a lower efficiency than a properly charged system). It is also possible for there to be a leak, but the HVAC guy missed it. He probably only did a quick leak check (soap bubbles). There are more involved (expensive) tests he can do. However, they may not be necessary. If adding coolant made the system work well, wait and see. If the performance degrades again in a few weeks/months, you have a leak.

If there is a leak, it is usually in the outdoor unit, which is exposed to the elements, and takes a beating. The good news is that the unit is probably still under parts warranty (typically 5 years for a cheap unit, 10 years for a good one), so if there is something expensive wrong, the parts should be covered. (When was the last time your air filter was replaced? If it's been more than 6mo, look at it and see if it is OK. If you aren't up for replacing your air filter at least once a year, you should consider a service contract where the techs do it for you.) I doubt there are filters on the individual returns, just at the main air handler return. I change filters every month (if I remember) because we live in the country and have dogs and cats. Sometimes there's a small drift of hair at the main return in the great room, which is a sign we need to sweep and reminds me to change the AC/furnace filter. What happens if you don't change your filter often enough is the fan motor burns out much sooner than it should, which will cost a 4 digit number to replace.

Last time I replaced the whole furnace/air handler because it only cost $200 more than the fan motor parts.Browse other questions tagged air-conditioning or ask your own question.That Noise in Your Air Conditioner Compressor Is Telling You Something — But What? Noise in the air conditioner compressor can be unsettling, but there’s hope. You can learn how to diagnose and treat a wide range of common air compressor noises. Here’s how to tell what that noise means and what you should do about it. Noise in the air conditioner compressor – What does it mean? The first question you need to ask when attempting to diagnose noise in your air conditioner compressor is “Where is the noise coming from?” Listen carefully to your air conditioner and try to determine its source. Next, ask yourself what the noise sounds like. A noise inside your air compressor could indicate that you need a simple tuneup, but it could also mean you need costly repairs or a replacement of the entire air compressor unit.

Here are some common noises and what they might mean. Banging or clanking noise – This may indicate a loose part inside the air compressor—for example a connecting rod, piston pin, crankshaft or internal mount. These noises may indicate your system needs an air compressor replacement. Bubbling or hissing sounds – This usually means your compressor has a refrigerant leak. Buzzing noises near the outside fan motor – These sounds may indicate a failing motor, loose wiring, arcing connections or arcing or burning at the fan contactor relay switch. Chattering or rattling noise – This can occur in models with a compressor crankcase heater element if the unit is started up before allowing 24 hours of power-on time. Humming electric motors – Humming may indicate that the starting capacitor needs replacement. Clicking noises – These noises may be caused by a failing or defective thermostat. Hissing or screaming sounds – Screams and hisses are often caused by excessive internal pressure and can be very dangerous.