You are here:HomeHome/GardenHome AppliancesHeating, Air Conditioning, Fridge, HVACGibson heat pump not cooling /Gibson heat pump not cooling QuestionQUESTION: I have two Gibson units for my home, one for upstairs and one down. Both installed in 2003. The upstairs is not cooling. The air handler is running constantly but the temperature continues to rise. I had a HVAC service tech out yesterday and he found no issues with the unit....freon was good, etc.....any idea what to look for next? Yes another tech that knows his job.  at the outdoor unit, there is a large copper pipe insulated with black rubber, it should be cold and dripping wet after the A/C has been running for 10 minutes.   That will tell you if you are close to proper freon level and air flow QUESTION: Well, after looking at it further myself, the unit does not turn on, period. I turned the thermostat from off to on and heard a "click" in the outside unit but it did not start...only the air handler.....is there a reset button or does this sound more serious?

The click you heard was the contactor pulling in, which is good it is supposed to on a call for cooling.  On the wall next to the A/C there is a service disconnect, where the high voltage gets to your unit.  Open the door and there will be a white or black push bar, that hopefully the tech has in upside down from looking at the A/C.  It will say on and off depending on which side is up.  If you pull it out it there will be fuses attached to it or right behind it.  If it is in the right way, turn the breaker in the garage off and pull the fuses and have them checked at the local hardware store.  They are special slow blow fuses and will need the same replaced. If this fixes your problem, chances are that that is all that is wrong.  But, since you already had a problem and that a bad capacitor or a motor going out can cause a fuse to blow you should have a service man check it out.  Not the one you had out yesterday though. Questioner's RatingRating(1-10)Knowledgeability = 10Clarity of Response = 10Politeness = 10CommentThank you John....you do rate a 10 in all catagories...found the problem...due to a dirty filter in the air handler, condensation had filled up the catch tray and the float switch had cut off the unit...

I drained the tray, put in a new filter and we're off and running. The freon levels were good. I moved the float switch to where I could see it... Thank you for your insight! Related ArticlesParanormal NewsWater Quality and Illness - AquariumsNBA Draft - 2009 Early EntriesAutomotive Questions and Answers -Air Conditioning Leaks - A/C Freon Leak Test - Air Conditioning Leak Test AnyCommand Universal AC Remote Control ACR-01DetailsAnyCommand Universal Air Conditioner AC Remote Control ACR-10 FREE Shipping on orders over $49. DetailsAnyCommand Universal Air Conditioner AC Remote Control ACR-20 with LCD Display FREE Shipping on orders over $49. Compatible Brands: ADMIRAL, AIRWORKS, AMANA, ARTIC KING, BEAUMARK, CARRIER, COMERCIAL COOL, DAEWOO, EVERSTAR, FEDDERS, FRIEDRICH, GE, GOLDSTAR, HAIER, HAMPTON BAY, HISENSE, KELON, KENMORE, LG, MAYTAG, MIDEA, MITSUBHISHI, NWT, PANASONIC, PELONIS, POLARWIND, SANYO, SHARP, WESTPOINTE, WHIRLPOOL, ZENITH. 2.3 x 12.9 x 4.4 inches

#22,152 in Home and Kitchen (See Top 100 in Home and Kitchen) #10 in Home & Kitchen > Heating, Cooling & Air Quality > Air Conditioners & Accessories > Air Conditioners > Windowcar ac repair in dwarka See all 464 customer reviewscar ac repair ajman Just The Best Co.types of hvac systems vav See all 464 customer reviews (newest first) It is easy to use and a bargain. Received this product quickly. If was fairly easy to program and it works great! I highly recommend this AC Remote Control! My GE is about 8 years old now and this remote worked to replace my old one that stopped working! Excellent price, on time delivery, and a welcome addition to my climate control endeavors. Lost my remote during a move....I mean Really who does that???

It works like a charm with my air conditioner I can't get it to work @ all none of the codes work . I did what the directions said to do. I was skeptical but it does work. My A/C is not listed but was able to progam fairly easily.Does not work for my sharp ac. A good replacement remote if it works with your A/C; functions match the older remote. I have an older GE model that used a remote control, and this device was able to get it to... See and discover other items: air king replacement fan, universal air conditioner remote control I suspected this issue during the winter and confirmed it now in the summer. Regardless of the temp in my home, the blower motor runs non-stop. In the winter this must have been causing my home to got through a permanent heat/cool cycle as the blower would bring cool air in after the home was at the right temp. Then the temp would get low, the furnace would kick in to heat the home and on and on. In the summer now it seems to be doing the same thing but with the A/C.

Once the home is cool enough, the blower keeps bringing in outside air with the A/C off now. This causes the home to heat up and on and on. The adverse effect at night is it's making my home too cold since the outside air is already quite cool. I check this question. Why won't my furnace turn off? I can manually turn off the limit switch and the blower stops. How can I test whether the problem is the limit switch or the thermostat? If the high limit switch was bad, the furnace should not fire. When the high limit switch trips, the flame/heating element will be shut off and the blower will continue to run to clear the heat. The blower will continue to run until either the system is reset, or the limit switch closes. I believe high limit switches are normally closed, and they should always fail open. Which means when they go bad, or the temperature gets too high they open the circuit. To test a limit switch, you'll want to check continuity to determine what state the switch is in.

If there is a serviceman switch, turn it off. If not, shut the power off at the breaker panel. Open the access panel and locate the high limit switch. It should be somewhere on the hot box. Disconnect the wires from the switch (don't forget which goes where). Using a multimeter, test for continuity between the leads on the switch. There is an easier test to check limit switches, but it should only be performed by HVAC techs. So I will not discuss it here. If the circuit is open, you'll want to replace the limit switch. If the limit switch is adjustable, make sure it is set properly according to the manufactures specifications. If the limit switch tests OK; or you've replaced it and still have the issue, you'll want to focus on the thermostat. From your description, it sounds more like a problem with the thermostat. Most safety mechanisms in furnaces do not let the furnace fire if there's a fault, so if you're getting flame I would not suspect a limit switch.

I would suspect either the thermostat has gone bad, or it is miswired. If the fan is always on I would suspect either the fan switch has failed closed (is always in the ON position), or the fan wire was incorrectly bonded to the voltage feed line. Thermostats are basically switch boxes. They'll have one live wire [R] (usually 24v in the US, or line voltage in other parts of the world), one heat call wire [W], one blower fan call wire [G], and optionally a cool call [Y], and/or C wire. When the thermostat wants to warm up, it will connect the R to W and G which tells the furnace the thermostat is cold and needs heat. If it's hot it connects the R to Y and G, to tell the furnace it's hot and wants to be cooled down. If you have a FAN control and you turn it to ON, the thermostat connects R to G and the blower fan turns on. The easiest way to rule out the thermostat, is to replace it. Troubleshooting thermostats is a pain in the ass, so it's much easier to simply switch it out.

If you've changed the thermostat and you're still having the problem, call an HVAC tech. I have an older furnace that uses the fan/limit dial type device and had the same problem running in heat mode. The burners would cut off at the desired temperature in the house but the blower would run continuously, blowing cold air in the house. I raised the thermostat setting higher than the house temperature to check if the gas burners would turn on while the fan was running. By the burners coming on, that let me know the limit side was alright. I then thought the fan side must be stuck on. I turned the power off to the furnace and tapped the fan/limit device a few times with the handle end of a screw driver to see if it would jar it loose. I Turned the power on and that solved the problem. This doesn't mean it won't happen again, but I haven't had any more problems. This is a quick diagnosis before having to test with a meter. My wife noticed it first one evening and it was fixed ten minutes later.