49 used & new from Camco 25071 14" x 14" Universal Roof Air Conditioner Gasket KitDetailsDometic Brisk Air II Non Ducted Ceiling Kit FREE Shipping. XX1C0 Brisk II Polar White Air Conditioner (15,000 BTU 410A) FREE Shipping. Buy "Camco 25071 14" x 14" Universal Roof Air Condition...” from Amazon Warehouse Deals and save 53% off the $14.84 list price. 19.5 x 17.1 x 1.4 inches #2,250 in Automotive (See top 100) 9.6 ounces (View shipping rates and policies) Install a roof AC with confidence with this 14" x 14" Universal Roof Air Conditioner Gasket Kit, the best available. It includes a self-adhesive picture frame gasket and two self-adhesive foam leveling pads (7/8" x 1-7/16" x 18" and 5/16" x 1-7/16" x 18") for a universal fit. Fit well and a nice thickness, easy installation. You will need silicon to hold gasket on a.c. while you install It worked very well and stopped leaking on the A/C on the roof. Can't beat the price! Works great but didn't need it so returned it.

Turns out I didn't need it as my air conditioner came with the gasket already. But I will save it in case I need to fix the A/C and reinstall it later.Roof Air Conditioner Water Leaks A fairly common complaint is that of water leaks from the rooftop air conditioner. These do not have to be nearly as hard to find or fix as people often make them- they simply need to be dealt with in a systematic method. The first question when dealing with this type of leak is- does it leak when it's raining or when the air conditioner is running (or, more rarely, both)? To deal with either, we need to look closely at how the air conditioner is mounted, and how it deals with the condensation generated while running. The main thing to keep in mind, is that the air conditioner is sealed to the roof using a sponge rubber gasket- this gasket is compressable, and really is a long term maintenance item (they can last years, but not forever). This gasket is compressed by 3 or 4 bolts running from the inside assembly up to the top.

For either "rain only" or "while A/C is running" leaks, first make certain there is at least 1/2 inch of gasket left (it is not tightened right down to the roof), then check the bolt for tightness- just make sure they are all snug, but don't over tighten- there must be the gap between the bottom of the A/C and the roof. The reason for this gap is that on most roof top A/C/ units, the condensation drains out the bottom of the unit- between the base of the air conditioner and the roof. For this reason, never, ever seal around the perimeter of the air conditioner- I cannot say how many times I have had to deal with a unit where someone slopped goop around the base of the air conditioner, trapping water in where it has to leak inside. The "inside"coils of the air conditioner sit in a drain pan, to collect the condensation, which then runs out a small hole in the side, and out the bottom. If the leak is both while raining, and while running, and the gasket is still thick enough and tight, odds are there is some roof deterioration underneath the air conditioner- as long as the roof isn't sagging, causing water to puddle up around the air conditioner, which can be checked by pulling a string across the roof, from side to side.

If there is significant sag, the air conditioner needs to be raised, either by installing 2 gaskets or by removing the air conditioner and putting shimmed between the roof material and roof frame- this is the method I usually use, building up with strips of 1/4" plywood, until the air conditioner is high enough that water cannot run in. ruud ac unit not coolingOf course, roof sag may be an indication of a larger problem, but quite often it is just age, and other than a bit of sag, there are really no structural problems.amana ac units ratings If the leak is only while the unit is operating, first check all of the above, if everything checks out, odds are that the drain holes are simply plugged up, or that the evaporator coil is very dirty, which will cause enough suction to keep the water from draining properly. 12000 btu ac heater window unit

To deal with this, we have to get up on the roof, and do some disassembly. You have to remove the plastic shroud, and then the front evaporator cover, which is usually held on by a number of screws. This will get you in to the evaporator and drain pan- it is usually fairly obvious if the drains are clogged, and they are easily cleaned, but if you are going this far, it is a good time to check the evaporator coils for dirt, and clean them if needed (if they haven't been cleaned in a while, it really wouldn't hurt to clean them. Coleman recommends "Formula 409" cleaner, which works well- I use "VoomRV", but most mild degreaser type cleaners should do fine. I don't like to use the standard coil cleaner products for this, as most of them are acidic, and while they would be fine in a large house air conditioner, I don't like the idea of these products running down the outside of an RV. Another great cleaner that I don't like for this application is "Simple Green"- it has some issues with aluminum.

The hardest part of cleaning the coils is rinsing them off without flooding the inside of the RV- being very careful with the water, putting rags in the opening from the top, and putting down a protective cover inside should keep everything A-OK. While you are up there with all these items, cleaning the outside condenser coils is a great idea- on air conditioners only a few years old, I can usually lower the amperage draw by 1 to 2 amps, simply by cleaning these coils (letting them get rid of the heat more easily). So- understanding what kind of leak you have, and where the water is supposed to go in a properly operating system, we can see that solving roof air conditioner leaks really isn't a hard job, as long as you have a bit of knowledge. Website © 1998-2013 by Christopher D. Bryant, Bryant Services, LLC   This website was built with HTML KickStartTrailer News > Trailer Gear > Photo Credit: Bob Livingston by Bill and Jenn GehrMay 2, 2014 Filed under Resources, Trailer Gear, Trailer How To

Every year, after the first big rain of the season, it’s not uncommon for RV owners to discover that there’s a leak originating from the air conditioner’s inside ceiling assembly. After a period of time, the weight from the air conditioner compresses the gasket, which starts to work its way loose during travel. Rainwater then finds a path into your RV, creating a stained ceiling and wet surroundings.Replacing the gasket between the air conditioner and the rooftop is fairly simple. Foremost, if the gasket is in decent condition, the problem can usually be traced to a loose air conditioner and can be remedied simply by tightening the bolts. For that reason, air conditioners should be inspected and/or tightened every six months for the first couple of years to compensate for the compressing gasket. If tightening the bolts doesn’t do the trick, the gasket needs to be replaced. Gaskets come in two sizes: 14-by-14 inches or 14-by-16 inches. If you know the model of your air conditioner, a call to the manufacturer usually will confirm the size.

If not, just remove the interior ceiling assembly and measure the gasket from the inside. While there are a few styles of gaskets on the market, it’s best to purchase one that’s made of black neoprene foam; cost is around $25, and they are available at most RV dealers and RV supply stores. Do not purchase the white universal air-conditioner gaskets; they will not hold up.Installation is quite simple but requires a second person. To get started, make sure the RV is unplugged from electrical power and remove the ceiling assembly. Once the underside of the air conditioner is exposed, disconnect the electrical connections from the upper unit to the ceiling assembly. In most cases, the Romex 120-volt AC supply wire does not have to be removed. Once the bolts that secure the upper unit to the tie-down plate are removed, the air conditioner is ready to be lifted off the opening in the roof. It may be easier to unscrew and lift off the plastic shroud that covers the top of the air conditioner, as this will give you some handholds to properly manipulate the air conditioner back into position during reassembly.

We’ve done this job many times, so we were able to leave the shroud in place. With the help of another person, lift the air conditioner and place it on its side, being careful not to lay the unit on its top, which could damage the compressor. Clean and inspect the roof material where the gasket was seated. Mineral Spirits, Simple Green or a similar cleaner will do the job well.If there are any cuts, tears or holes in the roof material, it will be necessary to make repairs before installing the new gasket. This is most problematic when working with rubber roofs, where the material can be pulled off with the gasket (if this happens, 4-inch-wide EternaBond tape does a fabulous job of repairing damage to the roof area). Using a sharp putty knife or a scraper, strip the old gasket from the bottom of the air conditioner. While it was simply installed with double-sided tape, over time the gasket can bond to the air-conditioner surface and become difficult to remove. This process will take the most time and require patience.

With the gasket removed, the surface is cleaned with the same product used on the roof. Install the new gasket in the same position. once it sticks, it cannot be repositioned easily. Before the air conditioner is reinstalled, use some type of a straight edge and check the roof for level. Over the years the weight from the air conditioner can cause the roof to sag and make it difficult to stop the leak, even if there is a new seal in place. If the roof is sagging, carefully lift the roof material (rubber or fiberglass) and install a thin piece of plywood (shim) underneath the substrate. Be sure that the shim is at least an inch wider than the outside dimensions of the gasket. Secure the shim using the correct glue for the particular construction of the RV. There will be no need to use screws for installation, as they can cause additional permanent damage to the roof material. Some service techs suggest using caulking between the gasket and the roof material, but this mistake will make it nearly impossible to remove the air conditioner in the future.

If you are the least bit unsure about this shimming process, it’s best to leave it to a professional. With the help of an assistant stationed on the roof, set the air conditioner back down over the opening and work together to center the unit. Once the position is set, bolt the air conditioner to the roof. There is no specified torque rating for the holddown bolts, so snug them first and finish by giving them three or four turns. Install the upper shroud if it’s been removed, then assemble the ceiling components. Now would be a great time to clean the foam filter with a mild soap and warm water and allow it to air dry.After the first road trip, remove the inside ceiling assembly and retighten the holddown bolts. Then check again after six months.Some RV manufacturers use fabric on the ceiling. As the air conditioner leaks, the water will stain the ceiling fabric, as it did on the RV we repaired. These water stains can be stubborn to remove, but a product called InstaGone does an amazing job without user exertion.