With this ductless ac troubleshooting guide, you can find problems with your system, fix it yourself, and save a lot of money.We will guide you through the process of identifying the problem and repairing your air conditioner or heat pump.The normal service charge would cost you over $100 but, with this guide, you can save that money. **NOTE** Only you can assess your ability to perform these actions. This is a guide and cannot give the details/procedures for every possible situation. If your unit is not operating, you should begin your ductless ac troubleshooting by checking the display on the fan coil for a fault code. In most units, the display will show an E with a number. With that number you can narrow down the problem by referring to the user manual/installation instructions.Next, you should check the room temperature setting. On most units this is done with the remote control. Ensure that the unit is in the proper mode and the setpoint is correct. You should also make sure the unit has been off for at least three minutes.

If the display on the air handler is blank, check the fuse or breaker for the unit. In the case of a tripped breaker, you should check the wiring connections in the outside unit. Some units also have a fuse on the control board in the air handler.westinghouse ac window unit Continue your ductless ac troubleshooting by checking the air filter. 1995 honda civic ac diagramIt should be washed at least every month. 2 ton ac unit rheemAlso check to see if there is any ice buildup on the coil. If there is ice build up, check to make sure the fan is working. Make sure the blower wheel is free to move. If it is free and the fan is not working then the problem is probably the motor or the control board. If the fan is working, allow the ice to melt and check the refrigerant level in the unit.

If there is no ice and the fan is working, you should go to the outdoor unit. If the fan on the outside unit is not running, you should check the dual run capacitor. Our capacitor testing guide will help you with that. If the capacitor can is bulging, it is a good indication that it is bad. If the capacitor is good the condenser fan motor may be bad. You can use our fan replacement guide to help you.If the fan is running, feel the compressor to see if it is running. If it is hot to the touch and not running, shut off the power and cool the compressor by pouring water over it. Then, check the outdoor coil and make sure it is clean. You should also check the dual run capacitor.After the unit is running, you should check the refrigerant level.If, after the compressor is cooled down, the unit makes a loud humming noise when it is trying to start, the compressor rotor may be stuck. You can use a hard start capacitor to try to get it to run. If the compressor still does not start, it may need to be replaced.

You can use our compressor testing guide to check to be sure.If the fan and compressor are running but the cooling or heating is insufficient, start by cleaning the unit. Ensure the fan coil, filter, and condenser coil are clean. Then you can check the refrigerant level and adjust per the operating instructions.**NOTE** IN SOME COUNTRIES, YOU MUST BE CERTIFIED BY THE GOVERNMENT TO HANDLE REFRIGERANT. If the unit's refrigerant charge is adequate, the unit may be improperly sized. The only way to tell if the unit is the proper size is through a process called a load calculation. If your unit is dripping water, you should begin your ductless ac troubleshooting by checking the drain hose to see if it is clogged. The easiest way to do this is with a bottle of water. Outside, stick the end of the hose in a bottle of water. Seal around the bottle opening with your hand. Then squeeze the water bottle and then pull the hose out. The water should drain but this may need to be done a few times to make sure the line is clean.

If the hose was not clogged, check to make sure the fan coil unit is sloped properly. The unit should be slightly out of level with the end attached to the drain hose slightly lower than the other end. If the remote does not work, you can replace the batteries. If it still does not work or you can't find it, most units have an emergency button on the fan coil unit that you can push to make it run. It will then operate as necessary to maintain a default temperature. You should complete your ductless ac troubleshooting by observing a complete heating or cooling cycle.HomeAir Conditioner Buying Guide Packaged Terminal Air Conditioners (PTAC) Installing an Air Conditioner into a Wall Air conditioners installed into a wall function the same as window air conditioners: they are single, self-contained units that exhaust heat and humidity from the room to the outside. Louvers (located on either the back or the back and sides of the unit) bring in fresh air. The air runs through coils, which are cooled by the compressor using refrigerant, and then the fan pushes the cool air back into the room.

They fit through a hole in an exterior wall, and are generally used to cool a single room. You must install a sleeve in your wall to support the weight of the unit. Shop All Wall Air Conditioners How do I choose a through-the-wall air conditioner? The three most important things to keep in mind are wall measurements, BTUs and voltage. Wall Measurement An air conditioning unit installed through a wall needs to vent to the outside � so the wall has to be an exterior wall. It is also important to know how thick your wall is � this will help you determine what type of wall air conditioner you can purchase. BTUs (British Thermal Units) BTUs are units of power � the larger the area you need to cool, the more BTUs you need. To calculate the BTUs you need use our BTU calculator. It's important to find the right size. Buying a higher BTU air conditioner than your room size requires is not recommended. It is preferred to have the correct size air conditioner run for longer to properly remove humidity from the room � learn more.

Plug Type There are two parts to plug type: voltage and amperage. Most rooms have circuits rated for a total of 15 amps of electricity, and many units have common 125V/15A plugs that can be used in most homes. If you are installing a larger unit with higher than 15 amps and more than 125 volts you may need to call an electrician to upgrade your circuitry. If you are replacing an existing unit, choose an air conditioner with same plug type to determine the right amount of amperage and voltage. What are the pros and cons of a through-the-wall conditioner? A through-the-wall air conditioner is a good choice for cooling a room if you don't want to give up the window or a particular room doesn't have a window. They are reasonably energy efficient and have a large range of capabilities. If you do not have an existing hole in the wall the unit can require professional installation. What is an air conditioner sleeve, and do I need one? A sleeve is the metal device that holds the air conditioner in the wall.

You must have one if you are putting an air conditioner through a wall because the wall itself cannot support the weight of an air conditioner. An air conditioner installed into a wall can have a slide-out chassis sleeve or a through-the-wall sleeve. Slide-out chassis air conditioners come as one unit (the sleeve and the chassis) and vent through the sides and back of the unit. They can be installed into a window or wall, and are ideal for walls around 8� thick or less. Learn more about installing a slide-out chassis air conditioner into a wall. Through-the-wall sleeves are a more robust application � these air conditioners are rear-venting and are ideal for thicker walls. Sleeves do not come with through-the-wall air conditioners; you must purchase the sleeve separately. Most sleeves come with an exterior grille, but for some models you can choose different grille options for a different look. Slide-out chassis air conditioners come as one unit � the chassis and the sleeve.

These units vents through the sides and the back of the air conditioner. Shop Slide-Out Chassis Air Conditioners Through-the-wall air conditioners do not come with a sleeve. The sleeve is sold separately. These units only vent through the rear of the air conditioner. Shop Through-the-Wall Air Conditioners I have a sleeve, how do I determine which air conditioner is right? An air conditioner installed into a wall can have a slide-out chassis sleeve or a through-the-wall sleeve. If you are replacing an air conditioner it�s important to first identify the existing sleeve. Through-the-wall Sleeve If the sleeve has a rear grille and the air conditioner only has vents at the back, then you have a through-the-wall sleeve. For replacing an air conditioner for a through-the-wall sleeve � you can purchase any rear venting, or through-the-wall, air conditioner that will fit into your existing sleeve. Here are some standard sleeve sizes from different manufacturers. 16 3/4" or 19 3/4"**

17 1/8" or 23" 16", 17 1/2", or 22" If you choose a Friedrich air conditioner to fit into your current Fedders sleeve, you have to have the correct vertical louvers on the rear grille. If your sleeve is deeper than 16 3/4" deep (like a Fedders B sleeve � 19 3/4") � you must order the baffle adaptor kit. Without the kit, the discharged air will re-circulate and cause the compressor overload to trip. Slide Out Chassis If the sleeve has louvers, or vents, on the back and side of the sleeve, then this sleeve was part of a slide out chassis air conditioner. For replacing an air conditioner for a slide out chassis sleeve you must purchase the exact replacement model for that particular sleeve. Because slide out chassis air conditioners come as one unit (the sleeve and the chassis), the sleeves are not interchangeable. You can usually find a replacement model based off the SKU number located on the side of the unit. If you need additional help call 800.570.3355 to talk with one of our product experts or contact the manufacturer for the exact replacement model.