Q. I have a question about mold and the musty smell it leaves in a room. My son moved out in December, and all the drawers in his triple dresser smell musty. Also, in winter, both my dresser and the one in his room get mold on the back, front and sides. Both are from a well-known, good-quality furniture-maker and are about 35 years old. I have been told that because these dressers are against an outside wall, they get mold on them. Here in Florida, my air conditioning unit is on 99 percent of the timeIn the musty-smelling drawers I have tried commercial anti-bacterial sprays and scented anti-static dryer sheets with no luck. I recently put four pieces of charcoal in each drawer, but the drawers still smell. I would appreciate any advice.A. First, I suspect that what you are calling mold is more likely to be mildew. However, the conditions that encourage mold and mildew growth are very similar. All you need is a higher-than-normal moisture content in your indoor air, either from high humidity in warm weather or condensation in cooler weather.

That both dressers are placed on outside walls could be a contributing factor. portable ac units 5000 btuThat can be helped by simply moving the dressers out a few inches from the walls so that air can more freely circulate behind them.kohl's ac unitOf the three things you've tried to remove the musty smell from inside the drawers, the charcoal is probably the only one that will help, though it will take a long time. hitachi split ac dealers in ahmedabadI have "de-musted" old dresser drawers and old trunks and suitcases by sprinkling them with lots of baking soda and filling them with crumpled-up newspaper. This can take weeks (or months), or might even require a vacuuming and a fresh application of baking soda and more newspaper. Often, a faster way is to put the empty drawers outside in the sunlight for a day when you have warm, breezy weather predicted and low humidity.

I understand, though, that getting that combination of weather conditions in Florida is not as easy as in other parts of the country with less tropical weather. There are a few more aggressive deodorizing products available from the Vermont Country Store catalog--Cedar Oil, Orange Mate Mist and two sizes of mesh bags containing volcanic crystals--that have all gotten high recommendations from my readers over the years. .However, the more important issues here are what's causing the problem and the high moisture content in your indoor air. With your air conditioner on "99 percent of the time," it may not be functioning properly or you may need an additional dehumidifier. It would be a good idea to have the unit serviced and examined by an air conditioning professional who can test the moisture content of your indoor air while the unit is working. There are many factors that could be contributing to the problem--how your home is constructed, insulated or sited, with regard to shade and local wind and weather cycles, or what kind or size of air conditioning unit you have.

But I do know that if you can lower the moisture levels of your indoor air, neither mold nor mildew can grow and flourish, regardless of what kind of climate you live in. (One of the nastiest mildew problems I ever witnessed was in a house in the Arizona desert where the occupant almost never opened a window.) So I suggest you start by getting your air conditioning unit checked and indoor moisture levels tested.In some places, local energy utilities offer free or low-cost assessments of the proper operation and energy efficiency of your heating and cooling systems and insulation, as well as tests of your indoor air quality. If you have either mold or mildew growing on wood furniture in the bedrooms with the air conditioner on most of the time, something is out of balance, and you could be breathing in the same mold or mildew spores that are growing on the dressers. Floodsmart.gov The official site of the National Flood Insurance Program Call toll free: 1-888-379-9531 or have us call you

Flood insurance policies cover physical damage to your property and possessions. Use the following list as a general guide to what is and isn't covered, or simply refer to the to better understand your policy and coverage. The insured building and its foundation. Electrical and plumbing systems. Central air-conditioning equipment, furnaces, and water heaters. Refrigerators, cooking stoves, and built-in appliances such as dishwashers. Permanently installed carpeting over unfinished flooring. Permanently installed paneling, wallboard, bookcases, and cabinets. Detached garages (up to 10 percent of building property coverage; other than garages, detached buildings require a separate building property policy). Personal belongings, such as clothing, furniture, and electronic equipment. Portable and window air-conditioners. Portable microwave ovens and portable dishwashers. Carpets that are not included in building coverage.

Clothing washers and dryers. Food freezers and the food in them. Certain valuable items such as original artwork and furs (up to $2,500). Damage caused by moisture, mildew, or mold that could have been avoided by the property owner. Currency, precious metals, and valuable papers such as stock certificates. Property and belongings outside of an insured building, such as trees, plants, wells, septic systems, walks, decks, patios, fences, seawalls, hot tubs, and swimming pools. Living expenses, such as temporary housing. Financial losses caused by business interruption or loss of use of insured property. Most self-propelled vehicles, such as cars, including their parts (see Section IV.5 in your policy). Coverage is limited in basements regardless of zone or date of construction. It's also limited in areas below the lowest elevated floor, depending on the flood zone and date of construction. Crawl spaces under an elevated building.