This section contains Amana and Goodman Pressure Switches. This section contains Pilot Burners and Hot Surface Ignitors for Amana and Goodman pr This section contains Flame Sensors manufactured by Goodman and Amana. This section contains Amana and Goodman Blower Motors. This section contains Goodman and Amana Defrost Sensors. This section contains Amana and Goodman Limit Switches. This section contains Miscellaneous Parts for Amana and Goodman HVAC Applications. This section contains Gas Valves manufactured by Amana and Goodman. This section contains Blower Assemblies manufactured by Amana and Goodman. This section contains Control Boards manufactured by Amana and Goodman. This section contains Ignition Control Modules manufactured by Amana and Goodman. This section contains Compressors manufactured by Goodman and Amana. This section contains Transformers manufactured by Amana and Goodman. This section contains Blower Wheels manufactured by Amana and Goodman.

This section contains Thermostats manufactured by Amana and Goodman. This section contains Relays manufactured by Amana and Goodman. Electrical replacement parts for Goodman Amana HVAC units can be found here. This section contains various Goodman-Amana Valves for HVAC Applications. Heat Exchangers & Heaters This section contains Heaters & Heat Exchangers manufactured by Goodman Amana This section contains Motors and motor parts manufactured by Goodman Amana. Fan Motors & Blades This category contains a variety of fan motors and blades manufactured by Goodman AmaHover over image to zoom Click image to enlarge Tap image to enlarge View Shipping + Delivery Estimates Not Available in Stores This Amana Air Conditioner with Electric Heat is the perfect size for adding cool comfort or warmth to hotel/motel applications, small additions, sunrooms, attics and garage conversions. A through-the-wall design allows for flush-mount applications.

No duct work or refrigerant connections required. Shop Hamilton Home Productscar ac repair apex nc All-season comfort — air conditioning and electric heatNo duct work or refrigerant connections requiredQuiet operation is suitable for any room, including bedroomsBuilt-in digital thermostatOnboard Energy Management SystemEasy-to-maintain washable filterSealed system with R-410A refrigerantkenmore window air conditioner filter reset 60 months parts / 12 months laborwestinghouse split ac unit Dimensions L x W x H (in.) 42 x 21 1/2 x 16 1/4 Review Terms + Conditions Print Reviews for Amana Air Conditioner — 15,000 BTU Cooling/17,100 BTU Electric Heating, 42in., Model# PTC153G50AXXX Q + A Terms and Conditions

Print Questions + Answers for Amana Air Conditioner — 15,000 BTU Cooling/17,100 BTU Electric Heating, 42in., Model# PTC153G50AXXX Call To Order: 1-800-657-0516 Mon - Fri 7:00 AM - 6:00 PM (CST)Sat 7:00 AM - 3:00 PM (CST) Don't Know Your Part Number? Locating the part number for your item ahead of time will help ensure you quickly receive the correct items. Parts + Service Available at Stores Look for stores that have this icon: HVAC --> Fixing A Furnace That Won't Stay Running Gas Furnace Won't Start: Cleaning The Flame Sensor On An Amana Natural Gas Index Of HVAC Articles Bruce W. Maki, Editor Every two years the Amana GUIC-070 furnace in my house starts acting up. Sometimes, when the thermostat "calls for heat", the burner will ignite and then go out within a few seconds. The ignition control module will try to start the furnace again, and the burner might stay lit for the normal duration. period of a few months the situation degrades to the point where

almost every time the furnace tries to start, the flame goes out On this furnace, the problem is the flame sensor... it develops a thin coating of clear or whitish deposits that insulate the sensor from the flame, so the ignition control module doesn't receive the signal that the flame is actuallyWithout that signal, the control module shuts off the gas valve and then tries starting the furnace again. If 3 to 5 attempts don't succeed in lighting the flame, the control module will wait for one hour and then try again. That's an hour where the house has no heat, and if subsequent attempts to light the furnace fail, it can get But the fix is quick and simple: Remove the flame sensor and clean it with fine sandpaper. [See Tools and Materials] comments below the article] This is the Amana GUIC070 gas-fired forced air furnace in my basement. The "070" in the furnace model number refers to the heating capacity, which in

this case is 70,000 BTU's per hour. measure of the natural gas input, not theAmana claims that this furnace is 80% efficient, so that results in a heat output of 56,000 BTU's per hour. That seems like a small furnace, but it actually does a good job of heating my 1,500 square foot house... considering the house has several old drafty windows and measly R-8 fiberglass in the walls. Before doing anything, I turned off the power switch on the side of the furnace. Then I removed the upper access panel. Like many furnaces, this Amana furnace has an upper and lower access cover. The lower cover exposes To prevent furnace operation with the lower cover removed, there is a cut-off switch (like the switch that turns on the light in your fridge) behind the lower cover panel. There is no such switch for the upper access panel, so it is possible to operate the furnace with the cover off. But it's not recommended to

run the furnace with the cover removed. Repairing your own furnace can create dangerous problems such as gas leaks, uncontrolled flames, improper combustion or carbonThe author and publisher of this article will not be held liable for any damage or injury caused by attempts to follow the information in thisIf you are not sure of your abilities, or if your furnace is different from the one shown here, then the best course of action is to call a qualified This article should be considered as entertainment,The publisher makes no guarantee of the accuracy or suitability of the information on this page. Behind the upper access panel are most of the components required for The burner box is at the bottom of the enclosure Using a 1/4" nutdriver, I removed four sheet metal screws that secured the cover to the burner box. The cover to the burner box just pulled off, exposing the gas orifices and the burner tubes.