The WIN100 outlet thermostat provides programmable feature for most space heater and window air conditioning units. Convenient display for time and temperature. The WIN100 outlet thermostat provides programmable features for most space heater and window air conditioning units. UPC: 0 21079 06512 7 Dimensions width: 3.00" (76.2mm) Dimensions height: 5.25" (133.4mm) *electronically controlled units can usually be identified by their digital readout. To learn whether a model offers automatic restart of cooling or heating after power resumption, refer to the product manual or manufacturer Easy to use Easy to read display Pre-programmed: 4 periods per day Separate programs for heat/cool Temporary override and manual hold 3 year warranty Selectable fahrenheit/celsius setting Adjustable temp swing (differential) ETL approved 120V outlet power: includes 2-1.5V G13 alkanline button cell batteries for clock Mercury free *Electronically controlled: 120V/15Amp/60Hz window air-condition units with auto-restart of cooling

Conventional 24V heating/cooling systems Hydronic (hot water) systems or heat pumps Window air-condition units without auto-restart of cooling after power resmptionBefore you assume your furnace or A/C is malfunctioning, try these simple steps to make sure it isn't a problem with your thermostat. Thermostats are simply a switch; they turn the furnace on and off. The only big difference from a light switch is that they have a mechanism that measures the temperature and when it reaches a predetermined point, it activates. If you turned on the thermostat and the heater (or A/C) didn't come on, it may be a problem with the thermostat and not the furnace. First things first, make sure that all the settings on the thermostat are as they should be. Make sure the "ON" switch is on, make sure it is set to "HEAT" or "AC" as appropriate, make sure there are no programming overrides. I've turned up the heat and had nothing happen because I failed to notice that someone turned it to "AC".

If your thermostat is battery operated, try installing a fresh battery. Even if the display is lit, a weak battery may be a culprit. If the thermostat is properly set and you have a fresh battery, then the next easiest thing to check is best done with two people. One person operates the thermostat (with the thermostat set to heat) turning it slowly from a low temperature to a high temperature. The second person is stationed by the furnace (even if the problem is with the AC, test the furnace). portable ac rental las vegasWhen the thermostat is turned on, it usually makes some sort of clicking sound which indicates a signal is being sent. ac condensing units r22At the furnace, when a signal is received, it should make a sound. macy's ac unitIf it makes a sound, any sound, it is almost certainly getting the signal and the problem is with the furnace.

If it is dead silent, then the problem is most likely in the thermostat or connective wiring. If you don't have a helper, try using a walkie talkie with the talk button taped to the "talk" position or a baby monitor or even use a cell phone to call your home phone. Leave the transmitter near the furnace and listen from the receiver for a sound. The next test is a little more difficult, but not too tough. Your thermostat is a switch, right? Well, let's bypass that switch and see what happens if we connect the wires together. That will do the same thing as turning on the thermostat. In order to conduct this test you will have to access the sub-base. Most thermostats have an outer shell and beneath it is the sub-base. Some models simply pop off when pulled straight off or pull from the top or bottom first then off. Other types may require a twist, depress a tab or may be held in place with one or more screws. Before proceeding, turn off the power to the furnace. The thermostat control is low-voltage and poses little risk, but best practice is to turn off the power to avoid injury or damage to equipment.

The sub-base is screwed to the wall. You will probably see two or four wires coming from a hole in the wall and connected to screw terminals on the sub-base. If you have four wires, this indicates wiring for both a furnace and central air conditioning. If you see just two wires, those are for the furnace. Before you disconnect anything write down which wire connects where or take a photo. Sure, you think you will remember, but 15 minutes from now you will be thinking "is it the red wire or the green wire." Even more important, if you disconnect any wires, secure them so them don't fall back through the hole in the wall. Use a small spring clamp or wind the wires a few times around a pencil to prevent the wires from dropping through the hole and into the wall. To test the heater you will need to connect the "R" (or "Rh") wire and the "W" wire. This bridges the two wires and has the same effect as turning on a switch. Turn the power back on and listen again to the furnace for any sounds.

If the furnace starts up, then the problem is almost certainly the thermostat and you should replace it. Do not leave the furnace running like this for an extended period of time, it will not shut off and could overheat or cause a fire. If the furnace is completely silent, make sure the furnace has power. Check the circuit breaker and use a tester to make certain there is power at the furnace. If it has power but does not start, then the problem could be a break in the wire running from the thermostat to the furnace or with the furnace itself. Ah, so what exactly is this hidden flaw? "My HVAC guy put a zoned system in my house and told me it was the cat's pajamas," you may be thinking about now. Or maybe your HVAC installer described it as the bee's knees, the eel's ankle, or the elephant's instep. However they described it, there's one piece they absolutely should NOT have installed. First of all, let's be precise in our language and clear up exactly what we're talking about. The word zoning is used in more than one way in the context of heating and air conditioning systems in a house.

First, larger houses are always zoned. That is, they have more than one thermostat so you can control the conditions separately in different parts of the house. If you have a two-story house, for example, you probably have at least two thermostats — one upstairs and one downstairs. The other way that the term 'zoning' is used is to describe a single duct system attached to a single HVAC system that serves multiple zones. In most homes, each thermostat is connected to its own heating and cooling system. The home is zoned, but the HVAC system is not. In a 'zoned system,' a single heating and air conditioning system is controlled by multiple thermostats in multiple zones. "Come on, man, just tell me what the flaw is!" In the photo above, the three green lights are part of three zone dampers that control the flow of air to three separate zones. Depending on the needs of the house, any combination of 1, 2, or 3 zone dampers may be open and sending conditioned air to their respective zones.

If only 1 or 2 of the zones are calling for air, most air handlers will create extra static pressure because 1 or 2 of the pathways are closed off. Enter the bypass duct, shown at right. When the system is running but not all zone dampers are open, the bypass duct—in theory—is supposed to relieve the extra pressure and maintain good air flow throughout the duct system. At the Affordable Comfort conference this year, I went to a talk on zoned duct systems where John Proctor and Rick Chitwood discussed the pros and cons of these systems. Proctor's take is basically that zoned systems are horrible and shouldn't be used. Chitwood likes them and says when done right, they provide exceptional performance. On one point, though, they both agreed: Bypass ducts should never be used. Here are three reasons why: Throwing cold air directly into the return plenum reduces the temperature of the air coming in to be cooled. That makes the evaporator coil get colder, and the colder it gets, the less efficient it becomes.

The bypass duct steals air. Even with all three zone dampers open, the bypass duct has a big pressure difference across it, and air is lazy. It'll cheat and take the path of least resistance whenever possible, in this case the bypass duct. Not only is a colder evaporator coil less efficient, it's also more likely to freeze up, as the condensation it collects eventually drops below the freezing point. (And if you think a bypass duct is bad for air flow, a frozen coil is way worse. It's really hard to push air through a solid block of ice.) The bottom line is that zoned duct systems are tricky. I do believe that Chitwood is right, but so is Proctor. I think Proctor's main objection isn't that zoned systems can't work; it's that they're done wrong so often. In the end, if you do get one, make absolutely sure the installer doesn't put in a bypass duct. Perhaps the Worst HVAC Duct Idea Ever — The Panned Joist Return Case Closed: Get Those Air Conditioning Ducts out of the Attic