Need code reference for AC condensate drain line Need a home inspection in Pennsylvania? listing of Pennsylvania certified home inspectors. Re: Need code reference for AC condensate drain line M1411.3.2 Drain pipe materials and sizes. Components of the condensate disposal system shall be cast iron, galvanized steel, copper, polybutylene, polyethylene, ABS, CPVC or PVC pipe or tubing. All components shall be selected for the pressure and temperature rating of the installation. Condensate waste and drain line size shall be not less than 3/4-inch (91mm) internal diameter and shall not decrease in size from the drain pan connection to the place of condensate disposal.Where the drain pipes from more than one unit are manifolded together for condensate drainage, the pipe or tubing shall be sized in accordance with an approved method. All horizontal sections of drain piping shall be installed in uniform alignment at a uniform slope. IF YOUR INSPECTOR IS NOT USING THERMAL IMAGING, YOU'RE NOT GETTING THE WHOLE PICTURE �Jeff Pope

JPI Home Inspection Service Santa Clarita Home Inspection Originally Posted by wfossierjr I would think you need to look at the bigger picture as to where the condensate drain is connected. Code requires that the condensate be connected to the building drain though an air gap connection and NOT physical to the drain. If the drain system backs up the there is potential that it can back up into the evap coilcasement window ac unit Originally Posted by Jeff Gatt1999 honda civic ac compressor replacementModel codes like the IRC only require the condensate to be conveyed to an "approved place of disposal"samsung window ac dealers in chennai Acceptable places for disposal include roof gutters, discharge at grade (preferably not draining across a walking surface), and fixture waste connectors before the trap (e.g. sink tailpiece before the trap).

For the last option the AC unit just needs to be above the sink (attic installations) or connected through a condensate pump (basement installations) to physically connect the condensate lines to the waste drain. Family mechanical business has been doing it that way for quite some time, including new construction with some very strict/picky building inspectors. JMO & 2-Nickels ... Use of rubber type hose to make the connection from the PVC condensation drain to the sanitary side of the sink tailpiece is common practice, at least in this part of TX. I prefer solid PVC connections but only call out hose type connections if they are not secure or the hose is deformed due to too sharp a bend. I wouldn't worry too much about the sink backing up into the evaporator coil up in the attic Chuck Evans (TREC #7657) Level III Infraspection Institute Certified Infrared Thermographer (#8402) HomeCert Houston Home Inspections & Thermal Inspections Find us on Facebook

Houston Thermal Inspections & Infrared Imaging Find us on Facebook Use of rubber type hose to make the connection from the PVC drain to the sanitary side of the sink tailpiece is common practice, at least in this part of TX. I prefer rigid PVC connections (which makes servicing the drain more difficult) but only call out hose type connections if they are not securely clamped at both ends or the hose is deformed due to too sharp a bend. Flexible piping used to connect the condensate drain to a sink tailpiece should be polyethylene or polyvinylchloride tubing (usually milky white or clear) ... see Jeff's post. Using flexible poly tubing for connecting to a sink tailpiece is the preferred method for many installers, because it's only a matter of time before gunk, hair, etc. clog that tailpiece wye fitting and it needs to be taken apart to properly clean. It looks similar to a dishwasher drain hose connection. Hallmark Home Inspections, LLC Serving Smith Mtn. Lake & the Roanoke Valley.

Originally Posted by mboore And the answer behind door # 3 is noAir Conditioner Condensation Drain Line Cleaning Air Conditioner Condensation Drain Line Cleaning Learn how to clean your air conditioner condensation drain line. TranscriptHi, I’m Lance with Invitation Homes. And today we’re going to talk about monitoring and cleaning your air conditioner condensation drain line. A clogged condensation drain line can cause a huge costly mess in your home, but this can be easily avoided by following a few simple steps. First, locate the air conditioning air handler unit inside your home. There are many brands, but it might look something like this. You might find it in a closet, garage, your basement, or even your attic. You’ll notice a drain line, usually a white PVC pipe exiting the unit similar to this one. This line carries the water created by condensation from the AC unit to the outside of your home. If this line becomes clogged, the overflow water will end up draining into your home which could potentially cause damage to your possessions.

Most condensation drain lines have an opening that allows access to the line. Over time this line can become clogged, but you can usually clear the line with a straightened clothes hanger or by vacuuming the line with a wet/dry vacuum. Once the line is clear, you can maintain the open line by pouring a half to a full cup of vinegar in the access opening of the line every six months. If your drain line is clogged and you can’t get it to clear, turn off your air conditioner to prevent water damage. Back to Video GalleryNew home has window condensation problems Asked January 9, 2014, 5:27 PM EST We have a new house, finished July 1, with windows that have a huge condensation problem. We don't have window coverings, we ventilate the showers (so even the mirrors in the bathrooms don't fog up), and have considered many of the issued raised when looking for the cause of condensation. We are told that because the house is new it will "sweat" for two years and that is why we have condensation on every single window, upstairs and in the basement.

When the temps are below freezing we have chunks of ice inside the window so that when the ice melts the windowsill gets damaged. If the house is sweating, we don't understand why the house made by the same builder three doors down that is 2 years old has the same issue. We don't see an energy star rating on the window stickers but there are a lot of numbers. We are trying to determine if this is just a low grade window, if they were installed improperly or if there are defects a warranty should cover. The window manufacturer sent a humidity guage and today with an outside temp of 41 degrees the humidity in the house is 46%. We have lived in new houses before and haven't had sweating, we have always run humidifiers all winter long because the Wyoming climate is dry. We are in Cody, but have lived in Thermopolis and Torrington, in homes new or extensive remodeling, but never have seen this type of ice buildup. We are looking for advice. The builders gave us a dehumidifier but we don't really want to run that and have our skin and wood furniture dry out.

The furnace installer says to install a vent to the outside but that seems counterproductive when we pay money to heat the house. The sliding patio door, made by the same manufacturer, also freezes as do the basement windows (which even on this warm day have huge droplets of water along the top vinyl casing. These are all vinyl windows, sliding in the basement and crank on main floor. We would like a non-biased opinion about this matter. I am going to refer this question to our energy specialist but I would point out up front that with an energy efficient house, any source of moisture inside such as a furnace or clothes drier will generate moisture that shows up on the inside of doors or windows, especially in really cold weather. What is frustrating is that we have eliminated the most obvious sources. Our.furnace is not vented to the outside but draws air from the house and the dryer is vented to the outside. In addition to my previous statement, the person who installed the furnace tells us we can install a small vent to draw outside air in but that would also mean more work for the furnace to heat additional cold air.

While there is foam insulation between the house and foundation, the builders did not take any other measures to insulate around the outside of the cement basement, so we are not sure whether we can call this house energy efficient. Our main concern is whether our Amsco windows are of good quality. We look forward to the energy expert's opinion. It would give peace of mind if we can eliminate the windows as a main source of the excessive ice build up. Good Morning, I am sorry to read about your troubles with your new home. I can offer a few additional lines of inquiry to help address the condensation problem. Although unlikely the root cause, you may be able to look up your window model at EPA Energy Star - http://www.energystar.gov/certified-products/detail/residential_windows_doors_and_skylights. You may need to ask the builder for a label, although it is also possible to look up windows by manufacturer. From your detailed description, it sounds like a ventilation issue in an air-tight (well-constructed) new home.

Older homes (such as mine!) have air leaks that, although an energy inefficiency, allow for fresh air and the dissipation of humidity. In some well-sealed new homes, there is limited opportunity for this air exchange, so daily household tasks, and even your own respiration, can contribute to humidity issues. You may need an air exchanger, with a heat recovery unit, to efficiently bring fresh air into your home. The Department of Energy provides a useful summary - http://energy.gov/energysaver/articles/ventilation If you want to invest time learning about these issues, I would encourage you to seek out a copy of Builder's Guide to Cold Climates: A Comprehensive Guide to the Best Cold-Climate Building Techniques by Joseph Lstiburek Another valuable third-party reference would be a consultation with a qualified building scientist or home performance expert. UW obviously cannot recommend any private firms, but I did consult a local building performance firm, Nyquist Building Science Consulting, for guidance on this question.

Please do not hesitate to contact me with any additional questions. If you are willing, please let UW Extension know how you get your problem remedied, as it will be useful information to share with others. The builders brought a dehumidifier as their solution. The window manufacturer sent a humidity gauge that reads 46% right now. What is a target humidity level base on inside and outside temperatures? from your response it seems like we are living in a toxic Environment even though the house is set up to eliminate radon. It seems from your info that the air passing through our closed windows is a good thing. Thank you for the response. The builders brought us a dehumidifier as their solution. The window manufacturer sent a humidity gauge that reads 46% right now but gave no advice on how we should use this device. What is a target humidity level based on inside and outside temperatures? From your response it seems like we are living in a toxic environment even though the house is set up to eliminate radon.

It seems from your information that the air passing through our closed windows is a good thing. We live in a high wind with very fine dust and adding vents to the outside will contribute to our interior dust. I kind of feel like selling this new home and buying an old one that can breath. Although there is no “ideal” level of humidity, your readings seem to be within acceptable range. /pages/28058/why-is-home-ventilation-a-concern#.UtCLrdK1y-0 The American Society of Heating, Refrigeration, & Air-Conditioning Engineers (ASHRAE) has developed universally accepted standards for air exchanges - Section 62.2 for residences – that your builder may be able to demonstrate meeting. It is very usual to require running a residential dehumidifier, with associated high energy consumption, in a Wyoming winter. I would not be too dismayed about living in a tight new home, as uncontrolled air infiltration also has many, many drawbacks. I cannot make an informed statement on the health of your home, but I can agree with you that it is not functioning properly!